About : standard furniture replacement parts
Title : standard furniture replacement parts
standard furniture replacement parts
eric: this video’s brought to you by sailrite. visit sailrite.com for all your project supplies,tools and instructions. in this video, we’ll show you how to makecushions for a curved patio set. after watching this video, you too shouldbe able to make cushions for your outdoor patio furniture. we’re going to be using the world’s bestoutdoor upholstery fabric, sunbrella, available from sailrite. for more patterns and colors, you may wantto consider geobella fabric from sailrite. we found some old furniture that’s frameis made from metal.
to restore it, we used a wire brush and steelwool to remove loose paint. then we used rust-oleum rust reformer, whichhelps to convert any rust to a paintable surface. then after it dried, we used rust-oleum hammeredfor a beautiful look on all of our metal furniture. now that our frames are ready, we can nowmake the cushions. cindi, from sailrite, will show us how it’sdone. we’ll first start with the seat bottom. i’m going to use this dura skrim patterningmaterial to make a pattern for the seat on this iron furniture. it’s outdoor furniture that no longer hasits original cushions so we’re going to
start from scratch and make some cushionsfor it. i’m going to use these lines in this patterningmaterial to get this centered and even on the frame so that that line comes at thiscorner and connects at this corner also. i’m going to mark the center so i know thatthis stays in place as i’m marking it. this furniture has a little lip on it. the cushion is going to sit down inside here. so that’s where i’m going to make my marksall the way around the frame in this area. eric: cindi will use these dots as a referenceto how to cut out the dura skrim pattern material. she will only mark half the chair.
then the dura skrim pattern material willbe folded in half and pinned together and then she’ll cut it out so that it createsthe opposite at the same time. watch as she explains. now i’m going to take it and fold it inhalf and line up these white lines and my marks for my center. eric: because she used the white line on thedura skrim pattern material and carefully lined it up to the chair, she knows that whenshe folds it in half, it’ll be accurate. put a couple pins in it to hold it all togetherand then cut on the lines that i made all the way around.
eric: notice she used the multi-use pins andpinned in several spots so that it will not move as she cuts. now i can unpin it and test it on the frame. eric: it is always wise to test your pattern. make sure it fits well. okay. so i’m ready to cut out my seat cushion. i’m going to make the seat cushion firstso i can determine the height of the back cushion after the seat cushion is made.
with these lines on the dura skrim, i canuse the same...this fabric has a horizontal line in it so i’m going to line those linesup with the horizontal line on the fabric so that it stays straight all the way acrossthe cushion. eric: this video’s brought to you by sailrite.visit sailrite.com for all your project supplies, tools and instructions. in this video, we’llshow you how to make cushions for a curved patio set. after watching this video, youtoo should be able to make cushions for your outdoor patio furniture. we’re going tobe using the world’s best outdoor upholstery fabric, sunbrella, available from sailrite.for more patterns and colors, you may want to consider geobella fabric from sailrite.we found some old furniture that’s frame
is made from metal. to restore it, we useda wire brush and steel wool to remove loose paint. then we used rust-oleum rust reformer,which helps to convert any rust to a paintable surface. then after it dried, we used rust-oleumhammered for a beautiful look on all of our metal furniture.now that our frames are ready, we can now make the cushions. cindi, from sailrite, willshow us how it’s done. we’ll first start with the seat bottom. this iron furniture. it’s outdoor furniturethat no longer has its original cushions so we’re going to start from scratch and makesome cushions for it. i’m going to use these lines in this patterning material to get thiscentered and even on the frame so that that
line comes at this corner and connects atthis corner also. i’m going to mark the center so i know that this stays in placeas i’m marking it. this furniture has a little lip on it. the cushion is going tosit down inside here. so that’s where i’m going to make my marks all the way aroundthe frame in this area. she will only mark half the chair. then thedura skrim pattern material will be folded in half and pinned together and then she’llcut it out so that it creates the opposite at the same time. watch as she explains. the way around.eric: notice she used the multi-use pins and pinned in several spots so that it will notmove as she cuts.
make sure it fits well. okay.so i’m ready to cut out my seat cushion. cushion after the seat cushion is made. withthese lines on the dura skrim, i can use the same...this fabric has a horizontal line init so i’m going to line those lines up with the horizontal line on the fabric so thatit stays straight all the way across the cushion. i will add a â¼â€ all the way around formy seam allowance. eric: the actual sewn seam allowance willbe about a â½â€. adding a â¼â€ to the pattern or desired finished size of the cushion willmake for a tighter fitting cover, which will make the cushion look great. now since this piece was cut the exact sizeof the frame, i need to add my seam allowance
to it before i cut it out. so i’m goingto add the â¼â€ all the way around. eric: again our actual sewn seam allowancewill be about a â½â€. we’re only adding about a â¼â€ to the plate for seam allowancerather than the â½â€ that will be used. now i’m ready to cut this out and i willcut on the pencil marks that i just made for my seam allowance. eric: cindi is cutting this plate out withscissors. if she were using a hotknife, it would prevent the unravelling of the fabric.we’re going to show you that so you can decide which way you want to cut your platesand boxing out. really, really easy to use.
eric: here we’re cutting out a plate withthe sailrite edge hotknife. this will seal the edge and prevent it from unravelling.here’s cindi. so here you can see the difference of usingthe hotknife; it’s all finished and clean. you can’t pull that apart; it’s fusedtogether. here we can easily pull the threads out. eric: it’s your choice. use the sailriteedge hotknife and you will not have to worry about the edge unravelling as you work withthe fabric. i can remove the pattern. i’m going to puta pin in the back on the right side so we’ll know which is the right and wrong side ofthe cushion. my second piece i’m going to
use this for my pattern. i need a top anda bottom piece for my cushion so i’m turning this over- right sides together- to cut theother one. eric: many fabrics have a right side and awrong side. this sunbrella fabric does not have a right side and a wrong side. however,it’s still important to take that into consideration when you’re patterning. that’s why cindiplaces a pin on the correct side of the fabric. i’m also going to put a pin in the backright side of this one so i keep them straight. those are your top and bottom plate for yourseat cushion. eric: before we cut the boxing, we’re goingto cut the foam to size and measure it to determine the width of the boxing. to accommodatethe thickness for our chair, we’ll be gluing
two pieces together. cindi’s going to explainhow to cut the foam and then glue it. the frame of the furniture has a bend rightin this area. so we know that the original seat cushion was around 6†deep becauseof the bend in the back of the furniture. to cut the foam for the seat on this, i’mgoing to use two 3†pieces of foam and glue them together. to make the pattern for thefoam, all i need to do is trace around my pattern for the seat. eric: we’re cutting this foam almost exactlythe same size as the desired finished size because this cushion has to fit inside thelip of the metal chair that’s for the seat bottom. typically when patterning foam weadd 1% of both dimensions of the desired finished
size pattern. why? because when the cushioncover is placed on the foam, it will compress the foam slightly, and we do not want ourcushion to no longer fill the space it was designed for. that general rule is being ignoredhere because we want the cushion to fit within the lip of the frame.we’ve chosen to use a dry fast foam from sailrite. this dry fast foam has large holesthat allow water to flow right through it so it dries out quickly if it gets wet. i’ll do that two times because we need thiscushion to be 6†deep. we can just use a regular kitchen knife to cut foam with. it’spretty easy actually. eric: if using an electric kitchen knife likethis, be sure to hold it straight up and down,
perpendicular to the top of the foam, so youget a nice straight cut. customers that cut their foam with an electric kitchen knifeoften ask if there’s problems with the edge not being perfectly straight. the answer isthat’s not a problem. when the cover’s put on, it’ll look great. as you can seeeven here, this edge is not perfectly straight. to glue the two pieces together, we’ll beusing 3m super 77. however, 3m general trim adhesive does glue and bond better. we have our two 3†pieces of foam cut andwe’re going to glue them together to end up with a 6†cushion for this frame. eric: it is not required that the foam stayperfectly bonded together. the cover will
actually hold it in place beautifully. butit’s a lot easier to stuff the foam if it is bonded slightly. if you want a better bond,use 3m general trim adhesive with dry fast foam. you’ll notice that both of these piecesof foam are not perfectly even, and that’s okay. the cover, again, will make it lookbeautiful. it’s okay if your edges aren’t perfectlythe same. the boxing on the cushion will pull that in and it won’t even be noticeable. eric: to give the edges more of a roundedlook, we’re going to be adding batting to both sides of this seat bottom. i’m also going to add a layer of this polyesterbatting to fluff up the cushion. you can make
a cushion without it, but if you do, the cushionwill be flat just like this is. if you add this to it, it gives it a little bit of life.this also needs to be glued on. eric: once the batting is glued over the topside and the bottom side of the foam, cindi will trim it roughly around the perimeter.don’t worry. dry fast foam will still breathe beautifully with polyester batting on boththe top side and the bottom side. i’m going to cut this even with the sizeof my cushion; just trim it off. eric: you’ll notice she leaves approximatelya â½â€ all around the perimeter. it’s not exactly even and that’s okay. actually thatgives it more of a rounded look. i’m going to turn it over and add it tothe other side also.
eric: if batting had not been used, we couldjust measure the thickness of the foam and determine the appropriate width of our boxing.but since batting was added, we need to compress it slightly before taking the measurements. we have the two pieces of foam glued togetherwith the polyester batting on top and the bottom. i’m going to press down a couplepounds of pressure on this to determine the width of my boxing. looks like about 6 â½â€.so my boxing will be cut at 6 â¾â€ because i want it to be a little bit bigger than this. eric: after measuring the thickness of yourfoam, to that measurement add between â¼â€ to â¾â€ to the boxing. keep in mind thatthinner cushions look best with more allowance
added and thicker cushions look best withless. basically adding less of an allowance will allow the seams to roll into the edgesof the cushion. we’ll come back to zipper plaque width a little bit later on. for thelength of boxing, measure around the perimeter of the cushion (minus the area for the zipper)and add 4â€-6†to that. so cut enough strips to cover that area. i determined the boxing should be 6 â¾â€so i’m going to cut two 6 â¾â€ strips and then determine the length that that stripneeds to be after i have sewn it together. after that i will cut my zipper pieces. eric: our foam when compressed with the battingequaled 6 â½â€. we’re cutting the boxing
with â¼â€ more added. so 6 â¾â€. our seamallowance will be about â½â€. so this will result in a boxing that is actually less widththan the actual foam. again a tighter looking cover makes for a better looking cushion. i’m going to make a mark on the wrong sideof this fabric so i know which is the right and wrong side. eric: this fabric really does not have a rightside and a wrong side, but that’s still an excellent practice to get into becausesome fabrics do. to cut the second strip, cindi uses the first she cut and uses it asthe pattern. so i have two boxing strips cut 6 â¾â€ wide,and one of them i will cut in half.
eric: to distribute the seam evenly on bothsides of the cushion, she will cut the one strip in half and join it to the two endsof the other. and attach one half to each side of the fullwidth piece and that allows the seams and the boxing to be balanced on the cushion. eric: use multi-use pins to pin it in place.then we can take it to the sewing machine and sew it. before we do that, we’re goingto concentrate on the zipper plaque. to determine the length of the zipper in thiscushion, i’m going to fold my cushion pattern in half and put a pin 2†back from the backcorner and then measure this distance. to the pin it’s about 22†so i need my zipperto be 44†long.
eric: this is the back side of the cushionwhere we want the zipper installed. for the width of the zipper plaque, the areafrom the teeth out to the edge of the tape is â½â€. so i’m going to add 1†(2â€actually) to my zipper plaque in order to accommodate the teeth of the zipper.my boxing was 6 â¾â€ so my zipper plaque i’m going to cut it 8 â¾â€ and then cutit in half. the length was 44â€. eric: so whatever you cut the width of yourboxing to, add 2†to this and this will be your zipper plaque boxing. i’m going to pencil mark on both sides ofthis on the wrong side and then cut this piece in half to accommodate the zipper.
eric: this 8 â¾â€ width of zipper plaqueboxing is cut in half. do the same for yours whatever the width is. next we’ll installthe ykk zipper to this boxing. this is where i will turn under the inch toaccommodate the zipper tape. i’ll do that all the way down one side of each piece. eric: this 1†hem is folded back on topof the wrong side of the fabric. we’ll do that to both strips. i’m going to cut my zipper tape just a littlebit longer- maybe â½â€ longer- than my zipper plaque. then i’ll put a few pins in thiswith the fold of my zipper plaque at the center of my zipper teeth.
eric: usually for cushions we use a #5 ykkzipper available from sailrite. this is a vislon type zipper. you can also use coil. i’ll pin the other side on also just pushingthose two folds right up next to each other on top of the teeth. eric: we recommend vislon for outdoor useand coil for indoor use. now i can stitch the zipper in and this rightedge of this foot is going to run right along the teeth of the zipper and catch the zippertape and my folded area. eric: to sew this irregular boxed cushion,we’re going to be using the sailrite ultrafeed sewing machine. this is the sailrite ultrafeedls-1 sewing machine. it’s a straight stitch
walking foot sewing machine. we’re goingto set the stitch length to about 4mm or 5mm in length. we’ll sew right next to the zipper’steeth keeping the fold on top of the teeth. she will pull pins as she approaches them.if sewing outdoor cushions, we recommend using a v-69 polyester thread with sunbrella upholsteryfabric. if using sunbrella marine grade fabric, we recommend using v-92 polyester thread foroutdoor projects. if you’re using upholstery fabric for indoor applications, use a nylonsewing thread. you can use your fingers to push those twofolds together and make sure it stays, covers the zipper teeth. eric: when one side is sewn, turn the entireassembly around and start sewing from the
opposite end. this keeps the zipper teethup against the same side of the presser foot that the original stitch was sewn on. now just do the same thing down the otherside. eric: here’s a tip: always try to hold orpress on the two trailing threads to keep them from getting bound up and creating arat’s nest on the bottom side of your fabric assembly- as you just saw. now we’re ready to put the slide onto thezipper. you hold it with this part going up, slide the opening onto the teeth, and justtug on the teeth a little bit. it’ll start to open and the slide will start to go down.and just push it down.
now i’m going to sew my two seams on myboxing strip here and here. eric: sew approximately â½â€ from the rawedge. we left the selvage side on the fabric so we’re sewing right where the fabric becomesusable; so right behind those holes. typically at the beginning and end of stitching, dosome reversing to lock the stitch in place. in order to keep the seams balanced on thecushion, i’m going to fold it in half and this will become the center front and eachseam will be on one side of the cushion. so i need to determine the length for this piece.i also want to mark the center of my zipper plaque. eric: our seam allowance will be about â½â€.never cut deeper than that.
so the zipper will go back here, and it’s2†in from the edge of the cushion. i’m going to do a rough measurement around thiscushion and come in 4†from the corner, which isaround 41â€; it does not have to be an exact measurement. if i double 41†that’s 82â€.so i would like this piece to be 82â€. eric: the boxing’s been folded in half.she measures from the fold over to 41†times two; it would be 82â€. what that extra 4†does is it leaves meenough- there’s the 4â€-it leaves me enough to cover up the end of the zipper when it’sin the cushion, and it will finish it off nicely on each end.now i’m going to sew my zipper into the
boxing strip, and it will become a big circlethat will go all the way around the cushion. eric: outside surfaces are facing each other. the next stitching i do will be right hereand right here, and i’ll take a scrap piece of fabric and that becomes my zipper stop.so you can see when this is sewn, it’s a big circle. eric: we’ll start sewing about â½â€ fromthe raw edge of the fabric with that scrap piece of fabric that’s been folded in halfon top of the zipper teeth and carefully sew through that. we’ll do that to the oppositeend where the zipper plaque joins the boxing. if you’ve done it correctly, the width ofthe zipper plaque should be about the same
as the boxing. as you can see, ours is. piping,or cording, adds character to the cushions. we’re going to show you how to make yourown next. next step will be to cut the bias cordingfor our cushion. the reason i want to cut it bias is because it goes around the cornersbetter and it doesn’t ravel. so to start my bias, i need a 45 degree angle, and thisruler has those angles on it. here’s my 45 degree line. i’m going to line that upwith the selvage edge of my fabric to get started. there’s my first cut. i’ve alreadydetermined that my strips need to be 1 â½â€ wide and that will give me â½â€ seam to applyit to my cushion top and bottom. i did that by testing the size of my cording with thesize of my cuts- wrapping around it to see
how i could get â½â€ from here to the stitching-and 1 â½â€ wide will do that. eric: we’re using the clear acrylic ruler,the rotary cutter, and a cutting mat- all available from sailrite- to make this biaspiping, or cording. now my fabric’s going to get wider thanmy cutting mat so i’m going to fold it in half on itself so i can cut more strips withoutgoing off the edge of the mat. i’m not using the lines on the mat; i’m just using thelines on the ruler to get my 1 â½â€. i also want a 45 degree angle that distributes thebulk on the cording so it’s not real thick in one spot. so here’s the 45 degree anglethere. i’m going to take the next one, put it right sides together on top of that one.when i stitch i’m going to stitch from that
angle to that angle. that will give me a continuousstrip of cording 1 â½â€ wide. eric: we’ll be placing piping all aroundthe perimeter on both the top and bottom side. so we need strips equal to the perimeter timestwo. and always don’t forget to make a little extra. here i’m stitching from the angle to theangle. so here’s your strip. when these seams are open, you can see that when theyroll over on the cording, they aren’t on top of each other. eric: beautiful! now we just add our piping. now i’m just going to lay the cording inthe center of the piece and wrap the fabric
around it. there’s a tunnel in this footthat’s going to carry the cording through and it does most of the work for you. eric: the sailrite ultrafeed sewing machineshave a tunnel built into the standard foot. try to keep these two edges even because thisis your â½â€ seam allowance after you get this sewn. eric: if you’re using a home sewing machineor others, you may need to install a cording foot. when cindi comes to each one of theseams, notice that she splays out the fabric so there’s not a lot of bulk there. thenshe lays the piping, or sometimes referred to as cording, right on top of that seam andthen sews over it. we’ll be installing this
piping to both the top plate and the bottomplate. that’s next. the next step is to apply the cording to thetop and bottom plate of the cushion. so the pin is here because this is the right sideof the fabric. i want to apply the cording to the right side. i’m going to pin a littlebit of this on so that you can see what i’m doing. remember on our pattern, this is theback of the cushion, and i like to start in the center just because it’s visually pleasingwhen you get your cushion finished. here’s what it’ll look like as i start to sew.i’m going to match these two edges up. when i get to the corner, i’ll do a clip so thatthe bias can bend around the corner like that. i’m not going to start right at the veryend. i’m going to start a little bit away
from the end so i can lay the other pieceup into this one when i get all the way around. eric: line up the flange of the piping, orthe edge of the flange, with the edge of the plate. this stitch is about a â½â€ away fromthe raw edge of the fabric. you can see the â½â€ on the back side. eric: when cindi reaches the corner, noticewhat she does. she finds the corner, buries her needle in that exact spot- which is abouta â½â€ from the other edge- lifts her presser foot, rotates the fabric assembly around,lowers her presser foot, then continues to sew with the bend in the piping, as she prefers.the next corner is not 90 degrees; it’s slightly curved. watch what she does.
now when i get to this curve down here, i’mgoing to take a couple of clips on this bias edge so that it goes around this corner nicer.just take a few stitches at a time and readjust it. eric: alright, excellent! let’s move aheadand skip to the part where we need to join the piping together. when i get back to where i started, i’mgoing to clip this off and then cut about 3†longer on the piece that i’m stillworking on. open it up, pull that fabric out of the way, and clip off this extra cording.then i pull this up here and fold that in diagonal, which keeps it from being reallybulky. tuck that in and roll it over. now
you’re bias is finished at the end. eric: follow that exact same procedure forthe second plate. up next, we’ll sew the boxing to the plate. the cording is applied to both pieces. i’mgoing to fold these in half to mark the centers in the front and the back. now we’re goingto take the boxing strip that we made with the zipper plaque in it and…i already markedmy centers there so we’re going to make sure we marked the centers of the front also.just make a little clip at the top and the bottom. so this center clip on the zipperpiece is going to go to the center clip on the cushion piece. i’m just going to puta few pins in this and then stitch it so you
can see how it’s going to work. eric: typically we do not pin the boxing tothe plate assembly as cindi is doing here. she’s just doing this to show you how it’sgoing to work. however, if you feel like this will be difficult, you could pin the entireassembly together prior to taking it to the sewing machine. you would have to pull thepins as you approach them. here’s the center clip for the front, andi’m going to match it to the center clip here. eric: for demonstration purposes, she’llinstall a few pins here as well. when we get back around to this corner, i’mnot going to pin it all. but you can see that
i’m going to have excess here. the excessis going to get folded underneath, like this, to cover up this end at the zipper. it won’tbe exact, but it’ll work. so i’m going to go start stitching actually in the centerfront, and i’m going to go around this way and then i’m going to come back and go aroundthis way. that will let me make these two folds in each end of the zipper.this is where i pinned it together at the center front with the two notches matching. eric: when sewing the boxing to the plate,be sure all the raw edges are lined up as you’re sewing along, and keep the cording,or piping, in the tunnel of the sewing machine. this straight edge will go around this curvebetter with a few clips in it also.
eric: do not create clips that go deeper thanour seam allowance. in this case, a â½â€. if you just take a few stitches at a timeand move the boxing where it needs to be as you go, you can get around that corner. wheni come to this seam, i’m going to open that up because it’ll lay flatter when the cushionis finished. then make a clip at the corner so that the boxing goes around the corner. eric: at 90 degree corners we make a singleclip. at gradual corners we make several clips. here is where we cut that extra 4â€. that’swhat’s going to happen to it; it’s going to get folded on top of itself and stitcheddown. eric: remember when you reach a 90 degreecorner, bury your needle, lift your foot,
make the turn, lower the foot, and continuesewing- as you see here. so here i am at the center of the back, whichis where i’m going to stop. then i’m going to turn it over and go the other direction.there’s what that folded area looks like on the right side. eric: we didn’t show it, but the assemblyhas been flipped. the boxing is now on the underside and the plate is on top, and we’rehere on the front side. we’ll start sewing right where we started again going the oppositedirection. so i’m back at the front and i’m goingto go around from the front all the way around to the back again.
eric: she starts about 3†on top of herprevious stitches. that way she doesn’t have to do any reversing. then she’ll sewall the way around. we’re going to skip ahead here and show where the zipper is showingbecause we need to create that fold again just as we did earlier. so we’re going toskip ahead here. put a few clips in it to go around the curve. eric: we skipped ahead to the 90 degree corner,and here’s where the zipper begins- just a few inches away. now this time the fold will be on the bottom.you just want to make sure that you leave enough fabric here to stitch this so maybea couple pins here would be helpful. so there’s
my fold to cover up the end of the zipper. eric: continue sewing until you sew a fewinches over the previous stitches. let’s move ahead. next we’re going to join theopposite plate to this assembly. so there’s the first piece sewn to the boxingand the zipper. now i have the other piece to sew, and i’m going to match the centerclips again and put in a few pins in the front and in the back. eric: these pins along the front edge andthe back edge will ensure that the boxing and the plates match up perfectly as it istaken to the sewing machine and sewn. i’m also going to mark the corners of theboxing. i do that by folding this cording
together for 2â€-3†and then pulling thisout straight. the reason i’m doing that is so this corner ends up the same place asthis corner when i put it together. so i’m also going to put a little clip right there.that will tell me that that’s where that corner needs to land. eric: she’ll do this only at the 90 degreecorners. if you’d like you can pre-pin the entire assembly before you take it to thesewing machine and sew to ensure that it goes exactly where you want it to. i’m starting at the center front again,and i’m going to go all the war around to the center back and then turn it over anddo the same thing on the other side.
eric: if you pin the whole assembly, as youapproach each pin, you’ll need to pull them out. as you can see, we’ve only pinned atthe forward notch and the back notch of this cushion. so everywhere else, cindi’s goingto have to be careful to not pull or stretch one assembly more than the other. then whenshe gets to the 90 degree corners, she’s going to check to make sure the notches lineup. at this gradual corner, she’ll cut some notches in there to help it to go around thecorner smoother and nicer. once she gets around to the side (we’re going to skip ahead here),several feet before you get to the 90 degree turn, always check to be sure the notchesare going to line up. coming up next, you’ll notice ours do not. see what cindi does tofix it.
whoa! here’s my clip, which should be here,so i have a little bit of excess fabric here. so i’m going to pin it at the corner tokeep it in place. then as i stitch from here to here, i’m going to pull tight on thiscording and that will ease in that extra fabric…hopefully. eric: in most applications, professionalsdo not pin assemblies together all the way around the perimeter. however, if that hadbeen done, this issue would not have happened. as you can see, she is pulling a little biton the bottom assembly and pushing on the top assembly to try to balance that out beforeshe reaches the corner. it does help, but it’s still not perfect. so you may wantto consider pinning. looks like i got most of it. so my clip isa little bit off, but that’ll be okay. it’s
the back corner. eric: instead of pinning, if you’d like,you can use a â¼â€ seamstick for canvas. we show that in other videos. here’s the part that’s folded over forthe zipper so i’m going to fold it again underneath and stitch. eric: when she reaches that half way point,or goes slightly beyond it, she will stop. we will flip this assembly and start fromthe front side again. so right here she’ll stop. now i’m back at the center front where istarted.
eric: she positions the assembly about 3â€or 4†over top of the previous stitches that began our stitching. she’ll sew fromthat point all around to where she stopped previously. we’ve skipped ahead and didnot show the rounded corner. we’re coming up to the 90 degree corner. that’s reallythe only corner that we can check to be sure the notch is lined up. so she will stop shortthere and check. you will notice that those notches actually are slightly off. so again,she has to do some finagling. it looks like this corner is going to be alittle bit short from where my mark is so i’m going to tug on this piece as i sew. eric: it’s always important to stop a fewfeet before you get to a corner that has a
notch to be sure it matches up. now she’spulling slightly on the boxing underneath and pushing on the plate assembly above totry to get those notches to line up as best as possible. and as you can see that doeshelp quite a bit. still, not exactly perfect. but close enough. you may be saying, “hey,this needs to be perfect. you should really only show a video doing something perfectly.â€but in the end, you’ll see the results. and i do think you will agree that it doesstill look great, even though these corners are slightly off. this is where i folded it on the first timearound so i’m going to fold it again so it all finishes off nicely.
eric: cindi will also look to see where thestitching stops previously and be sure the assemblies are laying pretty much flat topof each. she’ll insert a pin there to ensure that she does not pull or stretch one toomuch. so there will be no excess wrinkles when she reaches that previous stop pointor beginning point. as you can see, everything looks like it’s going to lay perfectly flatso she’s in good shape. now it’s all sewn together. all we have to do next is insertthe foam. now i unzip the zipper and turn it right sideout. eric: you can see some of the unravellingthat happened. if we’d used a hotknife, that would not have taken place. however,it’s easily cutoff with scissors so don’t
worry about it. now we’re ready to stuff. eric: stuffing foam inside of cushion coversis never much fun, and it usually helps to have two people doing this task. we’re goingto skip forward and show the final parts of stuffing the foam in the cushion cover. atthe corners and along the edge of the cushion cover, the foam will need to be pushed intothat position. you’ll notice that cindi’s hand is inside the cover and she is tryingto lay the foam and the polyester batting in the appropriate position for the best look. when you’re working with this, you wantto push the seam down towards the boxing-
away from the top and bottom of the cushion. eric: sometimes if a corner doesn’t lookfilled appropriately, a polyester fiberfill can be used to help plump it up. then i’m going to use the polyester fiberto fill out the corners nicely. see this one looks like that too. eric: remember that our corners did not matchup exactly. the cushion still looks great, but you can see slight wrinkles here at this90 degree turn, and those wrinkles are caused by having to shrink up one side more thanthe other as it was sewn. but overall, the cushion cover looks great. as soon as we getthis zipper closed, it’ll look better. the
advantages of a tight fitting cover like thisare: when the cushion is used, over time the fabric will stretch slightly. this stretchwill not cause adverse effects. the cushion cover will still fit nice and tight. that’swhy we do not add our total seam allowance into the plates or boxing. so here’s our finished cushion, and howit fits into the furniture down into this little lip on the edge of it. eric: the seat bottom looks great. don’tgo away. the materials list is coming up, and also we’ll be showing you how to buildthe backrest cushion. all of the materials and most of the tools can be purchased fromsailrite. coming up next, we’ll be showing
you how to make the backrest for this chair.the process for making the backrest, which is coming up next, is almost done exactlythe same as what was shown for the seat cushion you just viewed. so we’ll be giving youa quick overview of how to do that. first off, we need to discuss the shape of the backrest. we made this flat box cushion to demonstrateall the things that are going on with the piece of furniture with this curve in theback and this angle right here, which means the cushion needs to be narrower at the front.so when i pull this in and make it go around the curve, we get all of this yuck. we don’twant that, and we’ll cover that in another video. but we also end up with this stickingway out too far on the side. we’re going
to show you how to compensate for that andmake that work on the sides. it looks really bad! eric: need to make a cushion that followsa curve? be sure to watch item #200677 at sailrite.com. here’s our finished cushions, and what we’regoing to show you is how to make the cushion follow this angle and this angle so it looksbetter when it’s all put together and we don’t have a great big chunk sticking outover here. the other thing that we haven’t talked about yet with this furniture is thatthere’s actually three sections. so there’s a section that’s going to come up to eachside of this. so we do need it to look smooth
eric: because of the curve and the angle ofthe seat bottom, patterning is very important. for the back cushion, i want to use the whiteline in the dura skrim to put right down the center of the piece of furniture. put a couplepieces of tape to hold it in place while i’m working with it. eric: instead of making one full backrestcushion that has a curve in it built for the curve of the chair, we’re going to maketwo cushions. that way we don’t have to deal with the curve because they’ll fitindividually within a portion of the curve. i’m making this the full length of the back,but my seat cushion will come up about 6â€. so when i get my seat cushion finished, i’lltrace this off the seat cushion for the correct
length. but for now i’m going to leave itthe full length of the frame. eric: at the time of this filming, we didn’thave that finished. and the same thing, just take your markerand make marks all the way around the edge of the frame. i’m going to mark this arearight here where i want my ties to be to hold the cushion on, and i’m going to use thetop outside edge of the frame as my guideline. when i take this off i’ll mark this as thecenter so that i know that this curve goes in the center. then when i cut my pieces,i will actually turn this one over so that i end up with left and right sides becausethis curve is different on this side and this side.this is where i had the piece taped at the
center of the furniture so i’m going tomark this that this is my center so i don’t forget that. eric: the pattern is simply cut out with scissorsalong the dotted lines that she marked on the fabric. i’m also going to mark this black line uphere to remind myself that that’s where my tie goes. when you look at the furniture,this pattern was from the left side when you are facing the furniture so i’m going tomark this left side facing. eric: to finish the bottom edge of this pattern,we need to lay in the seat bottom that we finished. now we’ll create the bottom edge.
to do my back cushion i’m going to tapethis pattern back on that i made initially and tuck it down in here because i only wantthe back cushion to come to the top of this cushion. so i’m going to take my pen andmake a couple of marks and that’ll be the bottom of my cushion. to determine this anglethat we just talked about along here, so that the cushion doesn’t stick way out off theedge, i know that my back cushion is going to be approximately 3 â½â€ thick when it’sfinished so i’m going to mark… eric: our 4†foam will compress up to abouta â½â€ when the cover is put on. pin at 3 â½â€ on this cushion. hold the squarealong this straight edge. from the edge of my cushion to the inside edge of my ruler,with this pressed up against the straight
edge of the chair, i have about â½â€ to 5/8â€.i’m going to go with 5/8†just because i know there’s another piece of furniturethat fits up against here, and i don’t want it to hang over. so when i take this pieceoff, my pattern off, i’m going to angle down 5/8†and to decide where i start theangle up here, i’m going to put this ruler back on and see where the ruler separatesfrom the curve of the chair. i’m going to measure from my cushion up, and looking atit upside down, that looks like about 15 â½â€. so that’s where my angle’s going to stopat the top so that i still have this curve in the cushion.so i’m going to remove my pattern and cut off my cushion where i marked thelines along the bottom of the other cushion.
that’s where i’m going to cut my patternoff. now remember we decided to make this 5/8†narrower at the bottom to accommodatethe angle of the seat cushion so i’m going to put a dot at 5/8†at the bottom, andwe were going to stop the angle at 15 â½â€. so i’m going to make a line up here at 15â½â€. i’m going to start my angle right there so my ruler goes out at the edge ofmy pattern there and to the 5/8†dot down here. i’m going to cut that much off mypattern to accommodate that angle. we’re not going to change the angle here in thecenter. but there will be a gap back here. it’ll only show from the back, and we’renot going to worry about that. that’s a little more technical than we need to getwith this furniture. since this is actually
a straight line here, these fit together reallywell without angling this area. i’m ready to cut my fabric for the backpieces on this. i have my angle cut here, my tie marked, and this is the center. againi’m going to measure â¼â€. add â¼â€ all the way around for my seam allowance. i’mgoing to show an alternative to cutting your fabric with scissors and use a hotknife tocut this one plate. you do need a surface underneath so you don’t burn your tableso i’m using a metal ruler. here’s what happens when you cut with scissors; as youwork with the fabric it ravels more and more. you may not want that so let’s use the hotknifeon this one. all i have to do is depress this switch and the blade heats up. it gets really,really hot and it melts the fabric and finishes
off the edge. eric: after this plate is cut out, we’llflip the plate and cut out a second one matching this one. since we basically covered thisin the first portion of the video talking about the seat bottom, we’re going to skipahead and go on to the next few steps. really, really easy to use.to determine the width of our boxing on this, we’re going to compress this a little bit.on this one, you cannot turn these cushions over because of the ties on the back. so weput two layers of the polyester batting on the front and none on the back. eric: when this one’s compressed, it’sabout 4†so we’re going to cut our width
for the boxing at 4â½â€. keep in mind thatthinner cushions look best with more allowance added, and thicker cushions look best withless. so we’re going to add â½â€ to this one. than to determine the length, it’sdone just as we did with the seat cushion. we will not show cutting all this out. we have our two back cushions cut out. hereis the one complete cushion (front and a back), the boxing strip that had a little piece addedto it to go all the way around the cushion, the two pieces for the zipper, and a tie.the tie is cut 2†wide by 27†long. we know that the tie was in the center so i’mgoing to mark it to go here. this is on the back side; i just made that mark on the fabric.i’m going to put the tie together, and i’m
going to just turn in 1/2†towards the centerfrom each side and then fold that together so my tie ends up at â½â€ wide. then justtop stitch down the length of it. to finish off the edges here where it’s real ravelly,i can just use the hotknife again and it seals it so it won’t unravel anymore; it cleansit all up. i do that to both ends. eric: piping was made in the same manner aswe did for the seat. now we’re going to put the piping on theback piece and then i will apply the tie to the center of this one. eric: for this 90 degree turn, a single cutis cut in the flange of the piping. needle buried, foot lifted, assembly turned, footlowered, then continue to sew all around the
perimeter. since this was previously coveredwhen we did the seat, we’re going to move on. next we’ll join the piping together.again, we do not need to show this entire process since it was covered when we did theseat. we have chosen to install piping to both plates. we will not show that. i’m going to take this scrap of fabric andput it on the back side so my stitching catches this scrap of fabric. that puts the pressureon this piece of fabric instead of this piece of fabric if the ties get pulled on. eric: this is just a scrap piece of fabricand it’s on the inside of the cushion. the tie is on the outside.
i’m just going to fold this in half to markthe center and make sure i’m in the right spot. eric: we’ll sew this tie for about 2â€sewing back and forth to lock it in place. that’s what it looks like one the back.that’ll protect the outside fabric. eric: now we can sew the boxing to the plates.the process of sewing the boxing to the plates is done just like we did with the seat cushions.so we’ll move ahead quickly through this; only showing brief portions.the fold on this side is a little bit deeper, but this is the bottom of the cushion andnobody will see it. so that one is a little bit deeper, but itwill still work.
eric: when we look at the final cushion you’llsee that it still looks beautiful too, even if people do see it. to match up the lastplate to this assembly, be sure to fold the corners. i’m going to fold it to mark the cornersat the bottom again, and fold these two edges together where the piping is sewn in, andthen smooth this across. that’s where my corner should land for the other side. eric: as discussed earlier, if you’d liketo pin the next plate to this boxing, you can do so. on this one i’m going to start at the cornerinstead of starting at the center. so i can
put that clip right at the corner in my piping.this is the bottom edge where the zipper is at. this one is going to come out really closeto where my corner is. i’m going to tug on it just a little bit because it’s a littlebit short, but it’s really close. eric: all that’s left to do now is to insertthe foam, as we did previously for the seat bottom. cindi inserts a little bit of fiberfillinto the corners to give it a beautiful look. this is a nice tight fitting cover as we designed.you’ll notice the fold on this side of the zipper is a little bit bigger than the oppositeside, but it still looks great. now let’s take a look at the side with batting and compareit to the side without. with the batting- two layers of batting- onit. this is what it looks like with no batting
on it; it’s really flat. eric: so it’s your choice: you can add battingfor roundness or choose not to. here’s what the cushion looks like whenit’s on. i’m tying it around the brace in the back. it follows this line nicely andit doesn’t jet way out at the side here because we put that little bit of angle init. eric: we’re going to show the material’slist yet again. the material’s list is almost exactly the same as what it was for the seatbottom. so if you need to see that list, here it is again. for outdoor patio sets like this,sailrite suggests using sunbrella upholstery fabric or geobella fabric- all available fromsailrite. if you have questions with how to
proceed with a project like this, be sureto give us a call at sailrite. if you’d like to see other videos that are relatedto making cushions for curved patio sets, check these videos out. for more free videoslike this, be sure to check out the sailrite website, or subscribe to the sailrite youtubechannel. it’s your loyal patronage to sailrite that makes these free videos available. thanksfor you loyal support. i’m eric grant, and from all of here at sailrite, thanks for watching.