About : tv stands furniture modern
Title : tv stands furniture modern
tv stands furniture modern
voiceover:the woodwhisperer is sponsored by powermatic the gold standard since 1921, and clear vue cyclones, clearthe air and breathe easy. marc:the cool thing withthese i can do the projects is not only do they focus onthe simple set of tools, they focus on importantand fundamental joinery. in this case you have tomake these interlocking finger joints on the knifeblock that really reinforce the same techniques that youwould use to make dovetails.
it's a neat thing to do ina slightly simpler version, and again reinforcing the fundamentals. the one they made was out of oak, and i'm going to use this big old of hunk and slab of maple back here. if you can, i recommend gettingone that is the full width, so you don't have toany glue up to get the nine inch width thatyou need to make this. keep in mind if you havea smaller set of knives,
you don't necessarily need tomake yours nine inches tall. you can bring it down a little bit, but i'm going to go for thefull nine because i happen to have a piece here that'sabout nine and a quarter. the challenge though is idon't have anything that can joint this with, i onlyhave an eight inch jointer. so, this exceeds thecapacity of my jointer. we're going to have to use somehand planes to clean up one side and then i'll be ableto pass it through the
planer to clean up the other side. it's something we haven'treally done much on the show, but it's a great way toflatten at least one side without going nuts with the hand tools. just doing enough so thatyou can use your power tools, if that's the way you choose to go. it's certainly the way i'm going to go. let's just dive right in and start hacking away at this piece of maple.
i should be able to get all four pieces out of this one chunk of maple. normally i'd start by jointing one face, but as you can see myjointer isn't wide enough. i'm going to have to flattenone face with a hand plane. if there is a cup in theboard i can save time by keeping the cup sideup while hand planing. with the board firmlysecured in my vice i mark the entire face with a markerto help gauge my progress.
if all goes as expected i'll only remove material from the outside edges. (planer softly scraping) i start by taking quick light (planer softly scraping) passes across the grain from the (planer softly scraping) inside out with my number five,(planer softly scraping) and i repeat the process (planer softly scraping) on the other side.(planer softly scraping) if the board is pretty flat to begin with
we shouldn't have too much to worry about, but i check my progress just to see if there's any high spots and imark them with a marker again. these are the areas thati'll focus my attention on in the next round of planning. even if we end up with twoflat and straight outside edges that certainly doesn't mean that they're both in the same plane. i check across the grainfor any major issues.
now i just clean up the high areas.(planer scraping) (planer scraping) at this point i like totake a few passes with the grain to make sure that it's flat and smooth across the length of the board when i get a full length shaving i can be pretty confident that thesurface is nice and flat. once again i check my progress, and make any adjustments as needed.
keep in mind this is a very quick and dirty way of doing this process. i don't need absoluteperfection and i don't really need a set of winding sticks here. i just need the boardto lay flat and stable as i pass it through the planer. with the planed side down, a couple passes through the planerflattens the other side. a quick flip, and a single pass gives us
a board with two flat and parallel faces. (jointer revving) a quick trip to the jointergives me a 90 degree edge, and finally i can slice the (band saw revving) board in half with the band saw.(band saw revving) after resawing the facesdo tend to warp a little, so a couple passes with the hand plane again gets things ready for the planer. now i use the planer to bring the
boards down to a half inch thick. (planer revving) at the table saw i trim the boards(table saw revving) down to nine inches wide.(table saw revving) then each board is cross cut(table saw revving) to create two sides,(table saw revving) and a stop lock ensures accuracy.(table saw revving) (table saw revving) using the diagram inthe plan as referenced,
i lay out the jointery on oneof the larger side pieces. instead of laying it outagain on the second piece, i simply transfer the marks directly by butting them up against each other. because of the risk ofcross grain tearout, i'm using the marking gaugeto score my reference line. this will also help later when it's time to do the chiseling. now we're going to cut outthe waste with the jigsaw.
get a blade that has really fine teeth, like the one on the left the one on the right would just be too aggressive. slowly make each cut keeping (hand saw revving) your blade in the waste area,(hand saw revving) and don't go all the (hand saw revving) way to the back line.(hand saw revving) it's hard to keep the saw(hand saw revving) perfectly level and it's very (hand saw revving)
likely that your blade is(hand saw revving) going to travel further than (hand saw revving) you realize on the underside(hand saw revving) where you can't see it.(hand saw revving) to get the material outfrom between the fingers, make several relief cutsand then a couple cuts across the grain to clean the bulk out. again, don't go right up to the line. (hand saw revving)
in the article the schwarzrecommends measuring the base of the jigsaw and using astraightedge as a guide. i don't know about youguys, but running a jigsaw along a straightedge hasnever really worked for me. maybe it's just the way i'm doing it, but i tried it and ofcourse my blade wandered. you can actually see mylittle screw up right here. so, i won't be doing that again. if you want my recommendationtake your time and go
freehand you can clean everythingup with a chisel later on. to do the final clean up on these joints you'll need a nice sharp chisel. begin by clamping down the (hammering) board on the sacrificial(hammering) surface and start chiseling(hammering) away the excess, once you haveas much removed as possible rest the chisel on the scoreline and chop down firmly. just don't go more than half way.
once we get that crisp lineestablished we're going to flip the board over and repeat theprocess on the other side. once both sides are cleanedup i use a small chisel to pare away any remainingstock in the middle. don't worry if you dishit out a bit that won't affect the final fitand finish in any way. it's a good idea to checkyour progress with a square. and now it's time to transfer our jointery to the smaller side pieces.
just stack one side on top of the other, and transfer the locations of the fingers using a blade or a sharp pencil. at this point there couldbe some slight variation from joint to joint soit's important to label each one and keep theorientation straight. cutting the jointery for thesepieces is exactly the same as before so there's noneed to show it again. but remember, cut on thewaste side of the line,
and that's absolutely necessaryif you want a decent fit. after a test fit you canuse the chisel to make any adjustments that are necessary. i lucked out today because i had almost no adjustments to make. (hand sander whirring) finally each piece getsa thorough sanding. if you're relatively newto woodworking you may not realize that the processwe've just gone through
is very similar to cuttinghand cut dovetails. i used the jigsaw for someof it and you might use a hand saw if you'reactually cutting dovetails so you can get a reallynice fine controlled cut. but really the process isalmost exactly the same. so, pat yourself on theback if you got this far, because it really is just like dovetails. the knife block is arelatively simple project, not really the kind ofproject that you want
to get too uptight aboutabsolute perfection. it's a fun project, it's a simple project. you can knock it out in aweekend and it's one of those projects that i don't know sometimes i like to throw perfection to the side, and sometimes work ona little bit of speed. let's see how fast i can get this done, and still get decent acceptable results. what i'm noticing here is thewood has moved a little bit
since i cut it and iplaned it down yesterday, and did the jointerytoday, and in my climate it's so dry that thingscan change very quickly. i've got a little bitof warping to deal with, but i don't think it'sanything i won't be able to clamp out during the glue up. the other thing to notice onmine there are a few places where the blade on thejigsaw veered off course, and went off on a slight angle.
that's one of the risksyou're going to run by using a jigsaw for this operation,so i recommend staying a little bit further awayfrom the line and just use your chisel later to chiselright back to your scribe line. one other thing that i didwhen i was marking mine out, and i mentioned before it'svery important that you know exactly what side of the line to cut on. the first round of cuts wedid on these pieces right? it doesn't exactly matter,i could actually have taken
the chisel and i couldhave gone back a whole another quarter inch and opened that up. the important thing isto make sure that when i transfer this to my otherpiece that's the one that i need to get absolutely perfect. this can be any length anydimension we want it to be, but when i scribe the lineson here now i need to know what side of that lineam i going to cut on. the rule of thumb, and thisgoes for when you cut dovetails
as well is the rule of thumb is to keep your blade in the waste area. okay, so if this is the wastewe would want our blade to be on this side of the line and you want to make sure that you leave that line. i do not want to consumethe line with my blade, and that's just a rule of thumb. what that winds up doing issome of the joints may be just a little bit too tight but at least
none of them will be too loose. as an example i did do one of them, just wasn't really payingattention, and i cut my line, and actually went into my pencil line, and it wound up being a loose joint. well, that's just the way things go. i'd rather again have tightfitting joints, and chisel back. pare it back to the absolute perfect fit as opposed to having ajoint that's too loose.
but once again i just wantto stress that this is really not the kind of projectthat you need to worry about absolute perfection,it's a skill building project that brings you up to the next level. now all i need to do is round(sand paper grating) over these edges because these(sand paper grating) are going to sit proud on each(sand paper grating) side we just want to ease(sand paper grating) the corners a little bit makes(sand paper grating)
them look a little bit nicer.(sand paper grating) and we need to cut a littlepiece for the bottom, but that gets inserted afterwards. after that the next stepwill be the glue up. okay, so for the glueup i've got some epoxy, and one of my little dixie cups here. i'm using a high densityfiller, the slow setting epoxy is very loose, very runny, soi like to use some of this. it's basically a white powder filler,
and that thickens it up a little bit. makes it a little less likely to run all over the place whilei'm doing this glue up. it's pretty light colored,give it a good mix. now that's consistency i'm a little bit more comfortable working with. just start painting the joints, and putting this thing together. you can see it takes alittle bit longer than you
might expect to get all theseareas covered sufficiently. so, a slow setting glueis not just a good idea, but might just be necessary,if you're racing the clock at this point you'relooking at a potentially bad glue up which is neverfun at this point in the game. (snap tap) we'll get some clamps in there, and then we will check it for square. okay, the clamp isn't going to fit here,
it's touching the outer fingers. just got a couple pieces ofscrap tape them to that surface. see another good reasonfor that slow setting glue. there we go, you see westill have a gap here. even though we've got thepressure applied on that side, it looks like it'salmost all the way over, but not quite it stillneeds some help here. this little box is goingto get a lot of clamps. before i tighten everythingall the way down,
i need to close up this gap here. this thing is starting to looklike some kind of a puzzle, but you really do need allthis extra clamping pressure. it looks like we're niceand square which is good. with a set up like this ifthose joints are each cut nice and square, nice andstraight you shouldn't have a problem with itbeing out of square. once you apply clamping pressure it's kind of like a self squaring set up.
fortunately that worked out for us, and what i would recommend doing though is checking for square afteryou apply maybe two or three clamps when you still have an opportunity to do something about it andmost of the time if it is a little bit out you can kindof just even with your hands just kind of tweak it into position, and then reapply your clamping pressure. we're good in pretty much every direction.
fortunately, we don't haveto make any adjustments. if i did have anything majorto do i'd probably take three or four clamps off and ifnudging it doesn't work then you take one of these clamps, and you clamp from corner to corner. whichever one is the offending corner, and you kind of skew itinto the proper shape. i let that dry overnightand of course we've got a little bit of clean up to do.
i couldn't quite get a ragor anything in there with all those clamps on it but that's okay. a little chisel and ascraper should be enough to get any of that excess epoxy off. but the really important thingnow is that we actually get this thing so that it sits nice and flat. almost inevitably there's going to be a little bit of unevenness there. put it down on a surface thatyou know to be pretty much
flat and just rock it back and forth. by doing that you can tellwhich corners are high. when i turn it upside downi could tell that this corner was a little high andthis corner was a little high. all i really have to dois mark it with my pencil, and i could feel a little ridge there so i know it is slightly skewed. i mark it with my pencil theni'm going to put it into the vice and just use a blockplane to clean it up.
just a couple passes, and just be sure to take more off toward the end. take a couple extra passes there. then i'll go a little further, few more. easy enough to do, a nicesharp block plane though really makes this a simple task. that is much better, no rock. now if you've been watching thewood whisperer for some time you've probably seen memake a number of mistakes,
and i'm never shy aboutshowing those errors, and showing how i go about fixing them. but usually what i wind up coming up with is more of a wood solution. if i've got a crack or a gap i like to fill it with wood when possible. but one thing we don't talknearly enough about is fillers. you can make your own athome, and get a decent match. but sometimes a commercialfiller really is the best way to
go and will give you the best results. but keep in mind not allfillers are created equal. if you just go grab somethingoff the shelf at home depot you may not be reallyhappy with the result. a lot of times it doesn'ttake stain real well, it's got a real nastyodor and it can shrink and actually crack and sortof like if your doing some mud on a drywall and you puttoo thick of a layer of mud it'll shrink and crack as it dries.
what i recommend specificallythis is hands down the best filler i've ever used. i may have mentioned it in the past, it's a timbermate wood filler. this stuff is made by a companyin australia, it's water based, it doesn't shrink, ittakes stain beautifully. i find that the colors that they claim, for instance this one ismaple, beach and pine, because they're all in the samefamily of color really does
match really well, and it'sgreat for hiding mistakes that you really don'thave any other way to fix. what i've got here is a crackthat resulted from the jigsaw, little mishap that i had andi figure why the heck not. let's try a little wood filler,see if we can use that as a quick fix and let's seehow the results turn out. nothing real complicated here i'm just going drive it into this crack. if you want you can alwaysuse blue tape to mark off
some of this wood so that thefiller doesn't stain the wood. but in this case i've gotto do some sanding still, i'm really not too worried about it. all right, let's givethat a few minutes to dry. let's clean it up with a little bit of sanding and see how it turned out. (sandpaper scratching) all right not too bad, bottom line is this is better than a black gaping hole.
with a little finish on there i think it's actually going to look pretty good. before i apply the finishlet's take a look at the bottom here and i'vealready cut this piece. it's just a half inch thick piece of maple that's going to go rightin the center here. you may be wondering is this going to cause a wood movement issue? it could i guess, but it'sgoing to live in your kitchen.
it's only a few inchesacross it's probably not going to be that big of a deal. if you're concerned about iti would suggest using plywood, or use maybe a rift saw andrecorder saw and piece of material that's not going toexpand much across its width. but i'm going to takemy chances here it's a fun little project why the heck not. the other thing is as youjust place it in there you're literally justcutting it to size here.
there's really nothingtricky, if you can get a nice tight fit you may noteven need anything like brad nails on this becauseyou'll get a decent long grain glue bond alongthe side of this piece. that's what i've got hereso i may shoot a couple of 23 gauge pins or something through there, but i want to see how wellit holds with the glue here. if i get a nice tight fit imay not need the brads at all. it's a light duty piece you know,
i doubt it's really goingto be much of an issue. plus when we put our bamboosticks or the whatever you want to call them the little skewersin here we're going to be putting a bed of epoxy in thebottom to hold those in place. that epoxy is going to seepinto any cracks and corners and everything and just holdeverything together down there. so, not too concernedabout securing this bottom any more than what i'm doing here. probably going to need alittle help of a hammer.
(hammer tapping) i would leave that panel justabout a 64th of an inch proud, and this way i could sand,scrape or use a plane to smooth everything out andjust make it look really nice. what would have been the more elegant way to have handled this bottom? of course you could havetreated it like a draw bottom. we could of put a groveall the way around, all four sides and had thatpanel sit inside that grove.
certainly would have been ithink a better way of doing it. but we're trying tokeep things simple here. one of the reasons thatwould of been complicated is we would of needed tomake a stopped grove. these two, the skinny sidesthe grove can go all the way through because this side here blocks it. you don't see it from the end grain, but what would happen if we put a grove on the inside of this pieceall the way across?
it would have been visibleout here on the end grain. we would have had tocreate a stopped grove, and the way that we usually dothat is with a router we just don't go all the waythrough and then you could square off the end if youneed to with a chisel. i just wanted to keepit on the simple side, and not worry about that right now. we've covered those things in other shows, and it's certainly afundamental thing that
you will want to get good at doing, but in this case sometimes i just think it's fun to have a projectthat you don't have to do the very best techniques you really want to just reinforce some fundamentals. this is interesting thiswill be a nice little experiment to see howthat bottom holds up, and if it creates anyproblems for me later. honestly, i don't think it will though.
i'm going to let this dry,sand it nice and smooth, and then we can work on the finish. all right, so the finish that we're going to use today is general finishes. high performance, it's waterbased and this is a satin. all i'm going to do ispour it through my filter. that'll get any sediment, any impurities, any crap that might be in thatcan, and filter it all out. this is just a standard paint filter.
you guys have seen me use those before. i get them by the caseon amazon pretty cheap. you can see this stuff isrunning through pretty quickly. it's going to be no problem spraying it straight from the can, icould dilute it a little bit. with water based stuff you don't really want to go more than 10 percent. if you're just goingto use water you could actually screw up the finishif you go much more than that.
in this case i don't reallythink i need to do anything. as soon as this is done dripping. close enough, you wonder whymy surface on the bench top here looks so dirty it'sbecause i'm not patient. all right, let's spray. (rhythmic music) after about four coats offinish with some sanding in between with 320, 400and then 600 grit i end up with a really nice beautifuland very simple satin finish.
now we have to look at the bamboo sticks. these are just little skewers that you could buy from a supermarket. i got mine from walmart theywere about a buck for a bag, and each bag has about a100, it seems like we're going to need roughly 1,000 or so. if i remember chris'srecommendation correctly. i also had someone, in fact itwas nerdy dude from twitter, who sent me a link to an online source
that was even cheaper than that. i only wish i would havegotten that link sooner. but again if you need to get them locally you can walmart was where i went. the problem is you needto cut these guys down. the web source that i sawincidentally had them in shorter lengths so youmay be able to completely skip this step if you do that but the ones that i have are a little bit too long.
cutting these is going tobe a little bit tricky. you don't really wantto use your miter saw, because that can be dangerous as you got all these little tiny pieces. even if you tape them togetherit's still not a great idea. we're just going to use a hand saw. it's going to be thislittle fine tooth dozuki. what i like to do is grab some blue tape, and just anywhere you canget a good grip start rolling
the tape around and justget a nice, also make sure use the points on a flatsurface make sure everything is nice and even and then wrap it around. that's going to helpimmobilize everything, and keep it nice andtight because otherwise it's going to be impossible to saw. so, i double check makesure they're all down. i'm going to measure, i'm going with about eight and 1/8th of an inch here.
put a little pencil mark and then i'm going to cover thatarea with tape as well. nice and tight if you can get it. since i just covered mypencil mark with my tape, i'm going to transfer the mark again. one thing you'll notice i'mreferencing from the pointy side because i want thepointy side to be up. if you look at the picturesthe way chris did it he has the flat side facing up.
for me if i'm going to bejamming knives in there i'm in favor of something that's tapered. it might accept the knifeblades a little bit better. it's going to be recessedbelow the surface. i've already cut a fewhere, they're already about a quarter of an inch below the surface. so there's really no riskof poking your finger, or getting cut or anything like that. i really prefer to havethe pointy side up.
let's go ahead and make this cut. we'll take our time it's notgoing to be a fast process. (dozuki saw filing) done, as you can see it'sgoing to take quite a few. to secure all of the bamboo tothe bottom of this box here, the easiest thing to do isjust drop some glue down there. it's pretty well sealedup all i need to do is mix up a little bit of this epoxy. i did a little double shotfrom my epoxy pumps over there.
added a little bit ofthis high density filler just to kind of i don'twant it to be too runny. i want it to at least sitin a puddle on the bottom. give it a real good mix and theni'm just going to pour it in and try and spread it around a little bit. all right, let's pour it in. well really this is pretty self leveling. not going to need awhole lot of help here. okay and now the funpart adding the skewers.
(skewers tapping) i guess the easiest thing todo would be to tilt this up on its side and let gravityhelp us with the skewers. the problem i see withthat though is the epoxy is going to run all over the place. so, i will probably geta bunch of these in here, and then worry aboutstraightening them out. after i get it maybe three quarters full. okay, so i'm going to tilt thisup on an angle and see if we
can't get these to stack insome sort of orderly fashion. it doesn't have to be perfect. you can see why at thispoint it's really important to have a glue with a long working time. because i've got thisluxury of taking my time, and making sure these are all placed in the way that i want them to be. you got to think about how many knives are you going to put in this thing.
if you've got plans onputting a whole bunch in here you might want to leavea few extra skewers out. give yourself a little bitof extra space to work with. that's probably what i'mgoing to use mine for is the larger butcher knives so i will probably keep mine alittle bit less packed. what's really fun aboutthis is it's different. it's different thananything i've ever done. using the bamboo skewers something
for the kitchen like this and something that's actually verypractical at the same time. projects like this are a nice diversion from the usual stuff thatwe might make in the shop. it doesn't help togrease the wheels if your significant otherhappens to enjoy cooking. it's a nice addition to any kitchen. well it certainly wasn'tone of the most difficult projects we've ever made but definitely
one of the most fun and memorable. i hope you guys take a chanceto build a knife block of your own and i'd love to see yourvariations on this theme. i know i've got a few ideaslocked in my head that unfortunately i just don'thave the time to do right now but they involve suspendingthis thing so that it swivels, and just i've got acouple cool little ideas that i'm going to play within the future but for now we've got to move on to thewall hanging tool chest.
but this is just one of those great little projects that you can knockout in two or three days. i definitely recommend downloading the plan and building one yourself. until next time thanks for watching. (twangy music)