tv stands for flat screens costco

tv stands for flat screens costco - Hallo friend furniture stands lover, At this time sharing furniture stands entitled tv stands for flat screens costco, I have provided furniture stands ideas. hopefully content of posts that I wrote this home design, Furniture Decorating, interior, furniture stands can be useful. OK, following its coverage of furniture stands ideas..

About : tv stands for flat screens costco
Title : tv stands for flat screens costco

baca juga


tv stands for flat screens costco


hi, diyers. sterling with alarm grid here.today we're going to show you how to install a 2gig go control panel. if you've ever seenour youtube channel before, this is the first time you've seen a non honeywell product.this is a big release for alarm grid. we're finally branching out to offer other productlines beyond honeywell. the 2gig product lines the first thing that we're going to launch,this is powered by alarm.com for monitoring service. so whereas honeywell uses alarmnet,which is an internal division for their internet and cellular communicators to provide cellularand internet monitoring, and total connect interactive services, the 2gig panels arepowered by alarm.com, which is a third party company that makes cellular units. they haveinternet modules as well where, again, you

can get monitoring without a phone line, andyou can get system control from a computer, smart phone, mobile device. so this is the latest and greatest 2gig panelon the market. it is the cp21-345. the 345 stands for the 345 megahertz range in therf radio frequency technology, and what that means is that the sensors that work with thispanel are the 2gig sensors which are on that frequency range. and also, if you know anythingabout honeywell, the honeywell sensors work on that same frequency. so you could use a2gig sensor with this panel, and you can also, without any other modules needed, learn inthe honeywell sensors. so any of the great honeywell 5800 wireless sensors that you'vecome to know and love will be able to be used

with this system. so the 2gig product linewith the range of sensors that they offer, they do have every, of course, door sensors,motion, smoke detectors, everything you would normally need but some of the more rare orcustom honeywell sensors that you may want, temperature sensors and things like that,could be enrolled to this system. so we're very excited about this product launch,and we're going to show you how to put this system up on the wall. if you've ever seenour lynx touch l5100 video, this may look familiar to you because we actually had thatpanel mounted right here. the back plates aren't exactly the same, so we're going tore-drill holes, but you can see we're going to use our existing power wire, the lt cablethat we use for the lynx touch. we are going

to plug that into this panel, show you howto get this on the wall and get it powered up. so we're going to review the tools we're goingto need first. we need a phillips head and flat head screwdriver. this one actually doesboth. so if you have one of these, you're probably in the alarm industry, but they areeasy to get flathead and philips' head screwdrivers. we have a drill for our three screws and wallanchors that will mount the panel to the wall, and we have a level to make sure it's niceand neat. we're going to start by removing the backplatefrom the panel. there's a small screw right at the top here that needs to be removed,and then there are two tabs, right here, where

you're going to want to flip over your flatheadto pop the backplate from the from the front cover. so we swap our screw driver and wesimply insert and pop each tab individually to remove the backplate from the panel. we'veget one off, got the other off, and the backplate is removed. you can see the circuit boardon the back here, we've got our backup battery. we have our siren, we have our power terminalsand we have an input for a dc barrel plug. so a couple of different ways to power thesystem. we'll talk about that a little bit more in a second. we also need a pen or pencil to mark our screwholes. this panel will ship with three screws and three wall anchors that you're going touse to mount this backplate to the wall. so

that's the first thing we want to do is pickour location, mark our holes, and then get this back plate secure to the wall. when you'rethinking about your installation of your panel, this is your wireless receiver to all of yoursensors, your door sensors, motions, everything that you're using to protect your house. soyou of course want to in an area that's going to be convenient for arming and disarmingas you come and go from the property. but you also want it as centrally located it inthe house as possible so that you get good wireless range out to all your sensors. they'renot wi-fi a lot of people assume that these panels are communicating via wi-fi they'resensors but again it's on that 345 megahertz range on the radio frequency technology.

so, typically, you're going to get about a200 foot range from this panel to any sensor in the house which should cover most environments,but if you have this on one side of your house, then maybe you don't get all the way out tothe other side. if you put it in the middle then you're getting the biggest rf bubblethat you can to cover the whole entire house. so we are right near our garage entry doorwhere we mostly enter the house, and we're also centrally located. the living room isone room over and this is a perfect installation location for us, and the reason why we choseto put lynx touch here. so here we go. we're going to put our panelup here, and we're going to keep it in line with our thermostat that we have over here,our z-wave thermostat, and we're going to

use our level to make sure that we have itnice and neat on the wall. we want to use this area here. since we already have ourdrywall hole, we're not going to make it any bigger. but you do have this entire cut outhere. if you had a drywall saw, you could cut your hole for your for your power wirecoming through so it fits in the back and you have this flush on the wall without anypinching of the wire. so we've got to make sure that this is lined up within the hole,and then we mark two at the top, and one at the bottom for our three mounting screws. so we're in line with the thermostat. we arenow level, and we just want to mark on the wall our screw locations. again, two at thetop and one at the bottom. now that we have

our marks, we can take our drill and drillour holes for our wall anchors and our screws. we've already cut power at our circuit breakerto this location to make sure that we're not going to have any risk drilling into the wallhere. now we take our three white wall anchors thatwere shipped with the product. push them in the wall. so i've got these wall anchors pushedin as far as i could. we used the 5/32 drill bit, maybe we could've gone a little bit bigger,but otherwise you can just tap these nice and flush to the wall, so that when we getour screws in there the panel will be flush to the wall. so the hammer might be a nicetool also to have. so we've got our three screws that came with the panel, that we'regoing to now screw into the three wall anchors

and we're going to fit our backplate. youdon't want to screw these all the way in until you got your back plate mounted, so you justone at a time ,get them almost all the way in, just a few turns before they're fullyscrewed to the wall. so once you get the first two screws, youactually want to hold off on the third one, because if you look at the back plate, theygave you a handy little up arrow to show you orientation. also you can use the backplatescrew location to show you the top of the panel. the top two, you put the screws in,snap and snap shot in place, want to make sure you fish your power wire through theopening here. we've got a little piece of tape that we were using to hold the wire tothe wall just so it doesn't fall back in the

hole. and this third bottom screw now we canscrew into place. you can always use your level just to make sure, in case your holeswere misaligned at all, when you tighten your screws down you can always adjust a bit justto make sure you're nice and level for the permanent mounting. so i made a slight adjustment there, and nowi'm just screwing my screws tight to the backplate so it's not moving now. 2gig has given uswhat they call a third hand which is nice right. we only have two, so we hang this littleplastic tab here, right onto this little plastic mounting, and that allows us to hang the paneldown without having to hold it, which makes it convenient as we hook up our wires.

now that we have our control panel hangingfrom our secure backplate, nice and neat and level on the wall, i'm just going to pointout what's on this board here so that you're familiar with your 2gig go control and everythingthat's involved here. so our circuit board, our brains of our panel is here, we have our2gig-rec2-345e. this is our wireless receiver for our wireless sensors. this module is built-inand included with every panel and will allow you to control any or work with any of the2gig wireless sensors. it'll also allow you to use the 2gig pad one which is an extrawireless keypad with button presses. we described earlier that the 345 megahertzrange is the same rf frequency that honeywell sensors use. so this is the same wirelessreceiver that will work with honeywell 5800

series sensors as well. the only device thatdoes not work with this receiver is the 2gig ts1. this is a really nice wireless touchscreenkeypad, give you similar functionality to the main control panel in a remote locationin the home. this device actually is 900 megahertz range. so this is only 345. it will not workwith ts1. there is a 2gig xcvr2, which is the alternative wireless relay module. youwould remove this module, put the xcvr2 here. it's got a little pigtail antenna here thatwould come off and you would then have a dual channel wireless receiver so you could workwith your wireless sensors, and you could work with that ts1 touch screen. so if you'reinterested in touchscreen keypads keep in mind that you'll need an alternative wirelessreceiver. this would pop out and you would

install the xcvr2. we have our backup battery included rightin this portion here, it connects and plugs into the board on this two pin connector.this is the standard capacity battery that ships with the panel. there is a higher capacitybattery to give you up to 24 hour backup battery runtime, and that battery would fit in thissame location, you would just pop out the standard capacity battery. so again, if you'reinterested in a longer backup battery runtime, in case you have longer power outages frequentlyin your house, you could upgrade to a bigger, higher capacity battery. we have our sirenright here. when the panel swings up, you can see on the other side, this is where thesiren will emanate from. this is for our siren,

our chimes, our voice annunciations. the panelmakes the noise from the siren right here. we have this blue button right at the bottomhere, it's a push button. this is a tamper switch, and it's held down by this plastictab at the top when the panels closed up. so when the panels closed up, if it were tobe opened, this switch pops out and would indicate a case tamper. that is a signal thatcan be sent to the central station to let the central station know that someone tamperingwith your system, and is just an added protection in case someone's trying to open up your paneland do any kind of damage to the system. we also have a strip of screw terminals onthis terminal block, and i'm going to run through what all these terminals are. startingat the top we have hw2 to and hw1. these are

for if you want to hook up a wired zone tothe system. so most people that get this panel, of course, are looking for a wireless system.they're going to have wireless sensors. but let's say you had a door right near your paneland there was an existing hardwired door contact, you could actually route your wire in throughthe back and connect to hw1 or hw2 and also the gnd terminals a few down, the number threeterminal. that would be your ground for your hard-wired zone, so you could actually hookup a sensor, or a series loop of multiple sensors and break it out over two differentavailable hardwired zones on this go control panel. we have a negative and positive bell terminal,so if you want to hook up a wired siren you

could do that by connecting to those terminals,and we have an open collector, basically, a trigger output that would allow you to activateother devices that are wired to the panel based on programmable actions that you wouldprogram for the open collector terminal. you have our ground, our gnd. we already describethe ground is used for the hardwired. it's also used for the open collector, and thenfinally the bottom two terminals. number one and two would be our negative 14bdc and positive14 bdc. so unlike a lot of systems that use ac power, the go control just like the lynxtouch, uses a dc transformer which means you have to observe polarity and you have to makesure that you connect positive to the plus and negative to the negative. that's goingto be if you're using your own custom wire.

of course you want to observe wire lengthand wire gauge requirements that are listed in the installation guides. so if you're goingto have a really long run from your transformer, where you're plugged into a regular wall outlet,to your panel you're going to want to make sure you buy the proper wire for the lengthof the run that you're going to be using. so that's in the installation guide. and youwant to make sure you don't exceed those limits. in our case, we're going to use our wire thatwe were using for our lynx touch which has a dc barrel plug, and therefore we don't haveto connect anything for dc power to the panel. we're just going to simply plug in to thisport. you can't see it at the angle, but this is a barrel plug, a dc input for a dc barrelplug, so we don't have to worry about the

screw terminals at all for our installation. so now that we've described all aspects ofour go control cp 21-345 control panel board, we're going to go ahead and power it up. sofirst thing we do, connect our battery. it's important that we do battery first beforedc power so that if there is any kind of surge the battery will take it enough the circuitboard we don't want damage the panel. so always battery first when powering up. you'll noticewhen we plug the battery in, we have no screen yet. that's just simply because the panelonly powers up when it's got dc power from the wall outlet. this battery will only holdit up when you already have that power and you lose that power. so a lot of people getconfused why is my panel not working? i plugged

my battery in. that's by design don't worry. so now that the battery is in, we're goingto provide our dc power to the panel, and instead of hooking to our plus and minus 14bdc terminals, we've got our barrel connector plugs directly to this input here. nice andeasy, no screws needed, or no screwdriver needed, and we're going to just close thispanel. sometimes you lose your connection on this third hanger when you try to closethis. so just be careful when you ever go back to opening it you don't let it just falldown. connect on the bottom first, and then it snaps shut on the top. before we providepower, we want to do our final installation step of hooking or screwing our case to holdthe control panel to the back plate. now we're

nice and secure on the wall it's not goinganywhere, and our final step is to plug in our dc transformer. all right. so we're down here by our two prongwall outlet. a lot of people don't realize that their alarm system is actually poweredjust from a transformer that simply plugs into a wall outlet. if you got like a hardwiredsystem a lot of people have no idea that that transformer's powering their system somewherein their house. a lot of times you have your control panel in a remote location, like abasement, or a utility room, or a laundry room, and instead of having the outlet rightin that room, it may be fished through the wall to a remote location. in our case, we'redirectly below our control panel, and we have

our wire fished coming here, and we're goingto plug into this bottom plug with this transformer that comes with our 2gig go control panel,and that's how we're getting dc power to our system. this transformer, it's a little unique togo control. they have this nice little mounting bracket, which you peel the tape, and it sticksright to your wall plate. it has a hole in the top, and a screw that you can use if thisoutlet doesn't have it. but a lot of outlets the wall plate instead of a screw on the topon the bottom just has one right in the middle. so when you fix this here, you would takethe wall plate off or the screw anyways, and then you would insert this screw that comeswith the transformer and that's going to hold

this clip to the wall outlet so that the cleaninglady, the family member that doesn't normally use the system, guest, anybody that triesto go grab this outlet is going to think twice before they unplug this because, again, thisis a very critical electronic components in the home. you don't want to have it unpluggedaccidentally. so that's what this clip is all about and why you would get this screw.there's even a zip tie that comes with it, so that you can zip tie it, so that no onewould ever unplug this unit. so on the back of the transformer we havetwo screw terminals. this transformer is not going to come included with a wire alreadyattached to the panel because 2gig doesn't know how far your outlets going to be fromyour panel. we talked earlier how you have

to be within the listed wire gauge and wirelength run, so however far you're going to run your wire there are certain limits tohow thick the wire needs to be. with our run, we're a few feet and this is 18 gauge wire,we're well within the limit. so we're going to peel our tape, and we'regoing to simply affix this clip so it's centered over that bottom outlet. so now that we haveour clip affixed to our outlet, we have our wire, it's got two spade connectors, one forred for positive, one for black or negative. if you're using your own custom wire, you'rejust going to have two conductors. you may not even have red and black. it doesn't reallymatter what the color is, it just matters that if you're connected to positive 14 vdc,that color wire needs to connect to the positive

terminal on the transformer. you probably can't see it in the video, butright here in the plastic there is a positive on the left, and a negative on the right.they're marked dc, so that you know that polarity matters. if you've worked with other alarmsystems that are ac transformer powered, polarity doesn't matter. so again, on this one it'scritical that we connect positive to positive, negative to negative, otherwise we're nevergoing to get power to our system. so in our case, we use our spade connectors.we've already loosened up these screw terminals so that we have a gap here. and we just fitour spade terminal under the screw, red to positive, black to negative, and we screwthese down nice and tight. we don't want this

to ever come undone. we're going to have acloss issues, and our system would lose complete power once the battery drained. now that we're connected, we give a nice littletug so we make sure we're secure. if you were going to use your own custom wire, a nicehandy tip is if you're using solid wire, you don't have to worry about twisting. but ifyou're using stranded wire, you would twist the wires to get a nice tight connection.i like to put a little fish hook. if you wrap it around your screwdriver, you get a nicelittle hook, and you can feed that hook up and around each terminal to get a nice solidconnection onto each terminal. with the spade connector, this is even easier.

we now open up our clips a bit, plug the unitin. we don't need to use our screw because, again, our wall plate doesn't have it, butthat would get screwed in there. and the final step, again, to make sure, after we fish ourwire back in the wall, and make it look as neat and clean as possible, we take our ziptie. we feed it through the two holes and pull it tight. you can snip the end but here, we are not going to have this transformerever get unplugged by accident. you certainly don't need to have this ziptie on here. if you need to ever power cycle your system, obviously you'd have to cut thisand have an alternative zip tie to keep it secure. but there's other ways to secure this.you could run a length of thread or yarn or something, anything that would really holdthis tight. and the real important thing is

that we're trying to highlight to anybodythat's going to go and unplug this that this is an important thing that should not getunplugged. so now that our transformer's plugged in andsecure, we're going to pop back up and check out the boot up sequence of the go controlpanel. we now have screen activity. takes a minuteto to load. we just give this system some time to power up and we will then see the2gig go control cp21-345 powered on. [system disarmed, ready to arm.] you can hear again the siren voice enunciationscome in here. our home button lights up, and we finally have our nice graphic touch screenshowing that our 2gig go control now is ready

to go. we hope you've enjoyed this installation video,and we invite you to subscribe to our channel. if you have any questions on your 2gig gocontrol system installation, please email support@alarmgrid.com.



Thus articles tv stands for flat screens costco

A few tv stands for flat screens costco, hopefully can provide benefits to all of you. Okay, so this time the post furniture stands..

You're reading an article tv stands for flat screens costco and this article is a url permalink https://furniturestands.blogspot.com/2018/09/tv-stands-for-flat-screens-costco.html Hopefully this article This could be useful.