About : standard furniture factory
Title : standard furniture factory
standard furniture factory
eric: this video is an excerpt taken fromthe dvd that comes standard with each ultrafeed sewing machine. view this video from the playlist to see thecomplete video content. we’re going to be threading the machineso that we can start to sew. but before we do that, we need to talk aboutthe posi pin. you’ll notice right now if i turn the flywheel,or even if i run the machine under power by pressing the foot pedal, that the flywheelrotates, but the machine is not operating, that’s because our posi pin is not engaged. to engage the posi pin, we simply pull thepin out of our posi pin keeper, which is really
nothing more than a spot to hold the pin soyou don’t lose it, and we go through any of the three holes in the power plus wheel(there’s only one hole in the monster wheel, if you have that), but we go through any ofthose holes and you want to push it in until you feel it hit metal, apply light pressure,and rotate until it drops into one of the four holes on the posi pin bushing. you can see once i push it in, i’ll pushin all the way and i’ll let go and it’ll spring out a little bit and that is in position. so again, i’m going to show you that onemore time. pull the pin, put it in so that it’s hittingmetal, rotate, and we just found another hole.
it doesn’t matter which hole you’re in,but once we have that in place, now when i turn the wheel, you’ll notice that the mechanismsof the sewing machine start to operate. we are engaged. so that is how we engage the posi pin. now i don’t want to run it under power rightnow because i have my sample under the foot, and i have just a very short piece of threadrunning through the machine. this is the thread that we left in the machineafter we did our test sewing to make sure that your machine is perfect. so let’s take a look at the thread pathbefore we remove the sample so that you have
a general idea of what we’re going to donext, which is threading. let’s remove the sample of material fromunder the foot, and i’m going to move our light out of the way so that you can see what’sgoing on here. so i’m going to lift the presser foot. this lever you’ll feel it has no resistanceon it until you get to the lift point, and i’ll push it back until it locks into place,and that lifts my foot. now what i want to do is take the flywheeland i want to rotate it either backwards or forward until the needle is all the way up. i know the needle is all the way up when thistake up arm is all the way at the top of its
travel. once that’s like that, there’s a littlepiece of tape holding our thread back here on the end plate, and i’m going to removethat little piece of tape because we don’t need that. that gives me just a loose tail of threadhere. now remember we’ve already looked at thethread path so that we have some idea of what we’re going to be doing here. now what i do is i’m just going to rotatemy flywheel so that i can get my very heavy sample of naugahyde fabric out from underthe foot.
i’m simply going to pull it until the topthread comes completely free of the machine. we do not need this sample anymore so we’lljust set it aside. at this point, what i want to do, and in orderto show how to pick up the bobbin thread, is i’m going to actually pull the bobbinthread back down to the bottom side of the machine. so to pull it out just lift this finger, pullout, pull the thread free, put it back in with the finger held out, and then drop thefinger and tap on it to make sure it’s in place. now we are ready to thread the machine.
your machine comes with a cone of v-92 weightthread, which is appropriate for heavier canvas work, and we’ve unbagged this thread already. it simply goes on the post of our integratedthread stand, or on the post of your standard thread stand if that’s what you have withthe basic package. then up through the grommet of the threadstand, or through the loop of the metal arm of the standard thread stand. then you want to lead the thread over to thespool pin, and you want to go the most direct path to the next threading device, and thatwould be the top hole in this case. but it varies from machine to machine, sothe most direct path.
next we want to go through the pigtail loopright here, and you’ll notice the best way to do it is to hold the thread diagonallyand just spin it in a counterclockwise direction into the loop. once i’m in the loop, now i’m going tocome down to the three hole ear on the machine, and i’m going to go down through the rightmost hole, around the front, and then down from the top through the left most hole. this will create- if i can grab that thread-sort of a candy stripe on that thread device. that helps to de-kink the thread before itgoes into the tension assembly. next we want to go through the tension assemblyplate, and i’m going to remove the cover
so that you can see this a little bit moreclearly. to remove the cover, you just wiggle and pullthis black plastic cover off. there’s another knob underneath which isactually the threaded knob that controls the tension. with the presser foot up, you should be ableto tell that there is a little bit of wiggle room in these plates. the plates shape sort of a pullied v section;that’s where the thread runs through. so you want to find that section, and thenyou want to pull the thread through from the right, underneath, and then underneath thistake up spring (you can see i’m moving the
take up spring up and down now), and you wantto pull on your loose end of your thread until the thread is trapped in this hook of thetension assembly, which activates the take up spring. so what i’ll do is i’ll hold some tensionon this thread end and then i’ll pull up on this, and you should’ve been able tohear it snap in place there. notice how the thread is now coming throughthat hooked arm and then going under the take now when i pull on it, you can see that thetake up spring is actively doing its job. now at this point i can pull on the loosethread and it pulls fairly freely from the machine with very little resistance.
if i drop my presser foot, you’ll see thatthe plates now are tight together here. if i pull on this thread it’s very tight. so that essentially shows you what happenson a sewing machine when you drop the presser foot, and that’s how you get thread uppertension to create a proper knot in your fabric. but we want to lift that again to continueour threading. now i’m going to rotate the flywheel fromthe top toward me. i’m going to rotate the flywheel until mytake up arm is all the way up at the top. when the take up arm is at the top, i wantto go through it from right to left, and now i want to bring the thread down.
there’s a hole right at the top of the needleinsertion point. i’m going to lower the needle so you cansee it here; right there. i’m passing the thread through that holefrom front to back. then i want to flip this thread under thecover just like so. the final piece we need to do to thread iswe need to thread the needle. so i’m rotating the flywheel around thenormal direction- it won’t hurt anything- in order to get my needle to a position wherei can get from the eye of the needle from left to right. this is a #20 needle in the machine.
so you see i really didn’t have much troublepassing that thread through there because it’s got a pretty good eye. now i am ready to pick up the lower thread. to pick up the lower thread, i simply holdthis tail loosely, and i’m going to again rotate the flywheel from the top toward meuntil the needle goes all the way down and then starts to come back up. i can tell when it starting to come back upbecause this take up arm will start to rise. sewing machine. view this video from the playlistto see the complete video content. we’re going to be threading the machineso that we can start to sew. but before we
do that, we need to talk about the posi pin.you’ll notice right now if i turn the flywheel, or even if i run the machine under power bypressing the foot pedal, that the flywheel rotates, but the machine is not operating,that’s because our posi pin is not engaged. four holes on the posi pin bushing. you cansee once i push it in, i’ll push in all the way and i’ll let go and it’ll springout a little bit and that is in position. so again, i’m going to show you that onemore time. pull the pin, put it in so that it’s hitting metal, rotate, and we justfound another hole. it doesn’t matter which hole you’re in, but once we have that inplace, now when i turn the wheel, you’ll notice that the mechanisms of the sewing machinestart to operate. we are engaged. so that
is how we engage the posi pin. now i don’twant to run it under power right now because i have my sample under the foot, and i havejust a very short piece of thread running through the machine. this is the thread thatwe left in the machine after we did our test sewing to make sure that your machine is perfect.so let’s take a look at the thread path before we remove the sample so that you havea general idea of what we’re going to do next, which is threading.let’s remove the sample of material from under the foot, and i’m going to move ourlight out of the way so that you can see what’s going on here. so i’m going to lift thepresser foot. this lever you’ll feel it has no resistance on it until you get to thelift point, and i’ll push it back until
it locks into place, and that lifts my foot.now what i want to do is take the flywheel and i want to rotate it either backwards orforward until the needle is all the way up. travel. once that’s like that, there’sa little piece of tape holding our thread back here on the end plate, and i’m goingto remove that little piece of tape because we don’t need that. that gives me just aloose tail of thread here. now remember we’ve already looked at the thread path so thatwe have some idea of what we’re going to be doing here. now what i do is i’m justgoing to rotate my flywheel so that i can get my very heavy sample of naugahyde fabricout from under the foot. i’m simply going to pull it until the top thread comes completelyfree of the machine. we do not need this sample
anymore so we’ll just set it aside. at thispoint, what i want to do, and in order to show how to pick up the bobbin thread, isi’m going to actually pull the bobbin thread back down to the bottom side of the machine.so to pull it out just lift this finger, pull out, pull the thread free, put it back inwith the finger held out, and then drop the finger and tap on it to make sure it’s inplace. now we are ready to thread the machine. work, and we’ve unbagged this thread already.it simply goes on the post of our integrated thread stand, or on the post of your standardthread stand if that’s what you have with the basic package. then up through the grommetof the thread stand, or through the loop of the metal arm of the standard thread stand.then you want to lead the thread over to the
spool pin, and you want to go the most directpath to the next threading device, and that would be the top hole in this case. but itvaries from machine to machine, so the most direct path. next we want to go through thepigtail loop right here, and you’ll notice the best way to do it is to hold the threaddiagonally and just spin it in a counterclockwise direction into the loop. once i’m in theloop, now i’m going to come down to the three hole ear on the machine, and i’m goingto go down through the right most hole, around the front, and then down from the top throughthe left most hole. this will create- if i can grab that thread- sort of a candy stripeon that thread device. that helps to de-kink the thread before it goes into the tensionassembly.
so that you can see this a little bit moreclearly. to remove the cover, you just wiggle and pull this black plastic cover off. there’sanother knob underneath which is actually the threaded knob that controls the tension.with the presser foot up, you should be able to tell that there is a little bit of wiggleroom in these plates. the plates shape sort of a pullied v section; that’s where thethread runs through. so you want to find that section, and then you want to pull the threadthrough from the right, underneath, and then underneath this take up spring (you can seei’m moving the take up spring up and down now), and you want to pull on your loose endof your thread until the thread is trapped in this hook of the tension assembly, whichactivates the take up spring. so what i’ll
do is i’ll hold some tension on this threadend and then i’ll pull up on this, and you should’ve been able to hear it snap in placethere. notice how the thread is now coming through that hooked arm and then going underthe take up spring. now when i pull on it, you can see that the take up spring is activelydoing its job. machine with very little resistance. if idrop my presser foot, you’ll see that the plates now are tight together here. if i pullon this thread it’s very tight. so that essentially shows you what happens on a sewingmachine when you drop the presser foot, and that’s how you get thread upper tensionto create a proper knot in your fabric. but we want to lift that again to continue ourthreading. now i’m going to rotate the flywheel
from the top toward me. i’m going to rotatethe flywheel until my take up arm is all the way up at the top. when the take up arm isat the top, i want to go through it from right to left, and now i want to bring the threaddown. there’s a hole right at the top of the needle insertion point. i’m going tolower the needle so you can see it here; right there. i’m passing the thread through thathole from front to back. then i want to flip this thread under the cover just like so.the final piece we need to do to thread is we need to thread the needle. so i’m rotatingthe flywheel around the normal direction- it won’t hurt anything- in order to getmy needle to a position where i can get from the eye of the needle from left to right.this is a #20 needle in the machine. so you
see i really didn’t have much trouble passingthat thread through there because it’s got a pretty good eye. now i am ready to pickup the lower thread. then starts to come back up. i can tell whenit starting to come back up because this take up arm will start to rise. when the take uparm is about ⾠of its shallow up, i can pull on the loose thread, and see this loop comingup? i pulled the bobbin, and i can pull it all the way up to the needle, but what i wantto do here now is take my scissors or screwdriver or something, pass it under the foot- yousee how i’m pulling the loop- and i’m going to pull both threads so that they’reboth between the bottom of the presser feet and the top of the needle plate. you can seethem pulled there. when we get ready to sew,
we’re going to pull those off to the leftback quarter of the sewing machine, as they’re positioned right now.my sewing machine is threaded, and the last thing i want to do is i want to take the threadthat is coming up from the bottom, and when you pull on the thread, it should pull likedental floss with consistent resistance. now let’s put the cap back on and just pressit in place and everything is threaded and you’re ready to sew. we also have our ultrafeedls-1 sewing machine set up, threaded, and ready to sew as well. i want to point outthat whether you have the red or the blue machine, the threading process is exactlythe same. we should have enough bobbin in the machineto do a little sewing. so this is a marine
grade red sunbrella. i’m going to fold itin half so it’s just two layers. what i’ve done here is notice i’ve put it under thefoot and then i’m dropping the presser foot, and you see my natural inclination is to trapthe threads here, and that’s how you start to sew. so what i’m going to do is i’mjust going to trap the threads for the first stitch or two, and then i’m going to depressthe foot pedal and i’m going to start sewing along. we’ll just notice that that’s verybasic sewing that we’re doing. but what we really need to talk about before we cango any further with sewing is some of the various levers and controls on the sewingmachines. let me talk about two that are only on thelsz-1 machine. that would be this lever, which
is the left, center, and right lever, andthis lever, which controls zigzag. so let’s start with left, center, and right. againthis is only on the zigzag machines. this is a gated lever. so if i try and move it,it’s locked in unless i push it down and move it. i only want to do this when the needleis up so you’ll notice my needle is up. the reason for that is…let me rotate theneedle so it goes down a little bit further so you can see what happens. when i push thislever down and move it, it moves the entire needle bar frame left, center, or right. sothe idea here is to use this control to get a straight stitch closer to the outer sideof either foot. so if i’m sewing next to a hard zipper or something, i can move itto the right to get my stitch in closer to
the neck of the zipper tooth. if i move itto the left, i can get it closer to the opposite side. center is where i normally want to be.the positioning of this lever will have no impact on this lever. so if i’m in the rightposition- this is my zigzag lever- if i’m in the right position, i’m all the way tothe zero reference and that means i’m in straight stitch. as i move this lever to theleft- and this one’s not gated; it’s just a stiff movement- as i move it to the left,and all the way to it, stop, i go from straight stitch to maximum zigzag width and anythingin between. but what i was trying to say is that if this is in left, that doesn’t impactit at all when this is in zigzag. this only functions when the mechanism here is set tostraight stitch. so i usually leave this in
center all the time unless i need to do astraight stitch on the right or the left. but we’ve already sewn a little bit of straightstitch. let’s move it to sort of a mid-zigzag and i’ll sew a little bit. you can see what’shappening is the needle bar is moving left and right in order to produce a stitch. ifi move it even further, all the way off to the side, i’ll get my full 5mm width zigzagstitch. the next lever we want to talk about is theez set stitch length plate and lever. this is a fairly new device for the ultrafeed sewingmachines. what it does is it gives you the longest possible stitch in forward and reverse,and it leaves the lever spring loaded. when i have it all the way to the top it’s fullforward. all the way to the bottom is reverse.
when i release it, it springs back up to fullforward. plus i have these stops that i can slide up and down in order to create a differentrange of full forward and full reverse easily. so it gives you complete flexibility of thestitch length that you want. for instance, now what i’m doing is sewing a shorter zigzagstitch. you will see that in the results here. when i push it into reverse, you’ll seei’m also getting a shorter stitch in reverse. so easy to use mechanism. this mechanism iscommon between the ultrafeed lsz and the ultrafeed ls-1 sewing machine. they function exactlythe same way. now with this mechanism, the one thing you want to keep in mind is thatyou don’t want to make adjustments to it with the needle trapped in the surface ofthe material, especially when we’re talking
about thicker materials because the foot canbe in a position where it can actually pull the fabric and deflect the needle. so fornow, until we get to a section where we discuss that more carefully, make sure that you alwaysadjust this when the needle is all the way up or all the way down, and either positionyou will not have any problems. so that’s how you adjust the stitch length.a couple of other common adjustments on the machine, we’ve already talked a little bitabout the lift for the presser foot, which is here. it’s the same on both the red andthe blue machine. we also have the tension assembly, which we showed a little bit earlier.but in general turning it clockwise increases the amount of tension on the top to pull theknots to the top surface. turning it counterclockwise
decreases tension to allow the knots to fallto the underside of the fabric. the final adjustment, again common to both machines,would be the presser foot tension knob. this thumb screw just allows you to control theamount of downward force that the feet apply to the feed dogs and the fabric on the sewingmachine. we want more pressure for really hard difficult to penetrate materials andwe want less pressure for really delicate materials and materials that are somewhatspongy and harder to feed in nature so that we’re not trapping and bogging materialunder the feet. but this control should be set generally in roughly this position foralmost all sewing. i don’t normally mess with it unless i have a situation that requiresan adjustment.
so with those controls, i already have thepresser foot up, and i just want to show that to remove the fabric then i can just wigglethe flywheel a little bit with the take up arm in its upper position, and as i do that,i can pull the material out and snip my threads and that’s how i would remove my work. sothose are the controls for both the ultrafeed lsz-1 and the ls-1 sewing machine. as youcan see they are largely very common with the exception of these two controls. we willget into greater detail on the use of the critical controls as we progress through thisvideo. alright, let’s do some sewing again. thistime i’m going to take some pacific blue sunbrella and i’m going to turn it intoa nice heavy 8 layer chunk of sunbrella. this
marine grade exterior stuff is quite heavyso 8 layers is quite a chunk to sew through. i’m going to drop my presser foot, and thenremember we trap our threads, and then we can start to sew. now what i want to talkabout is i want to talk about the #1 rule of thumb for making adjustments to the stitchlength or the stitch width or the needle position, and that is you should always make those adjustmentswith the needle out of the fabric. this is just a rule of thumb because when the needleis out of the fabric, when i move my left, right or center or i change to my zigzag stitch,any movement in the needle bar related to the movement of these or even when i reverse,any movement in the fabric, if my needle’s not touching the surface of the material,my needle is not going to be deflected by
the mechanical movements that i make via thelevers. as a rule of thumb, make adjustments to the needle positioning, the stitch width,or the stitch length, when the needle is completely out of the fabric.with all rules, there are exceptions. this rule of the needle always out for adjustmentsis one of those where there are some exceptions. let’s say for instance you’re sewing alongand you reach a corner and you want to turn that corner, what i suggest there is rotatethe flywheel until the needle is all the way down- so obviously a change of direction-lift the presser foot and then pivot on the needle, drop the presser foot and then youcan continue to sew. by doing this you will achieve the best sharpest corner turns andthat’s quite easy. now if i’m just sewing
along and i need to change directions gradually,i can do that just by twisting the material. i can twist sharp or if i’m going faster.the other thing, though, is that if you want to reverse, you can do the same thing. soanother exception, needle all the way down in the material instead of all the way up,now i can push down on the reversing lever and i can reverse from that point. the otherthing is that while i’m under speed, i can actually change the stitch length as longas the machine is operating fast enough that there’s a rare possibility of the needlebeing caught in the material while the fabric is still moving. so those would be exceptionsfor turning corners and for stitch length where you might want to make adjustments withthe needle down.
as far as the zigzag width, there’s reallyno exception. you only want to make that adjustment when the needle is out of the fabric as i’mdoing here. but if i want to turn a corner, again i would bury the needle so that i haveit buried on one of the points of the zig and then continue. gradual movements i cando under power. reversing i can do under power or again bury the needle, put it in reverse,and then go forward. if i want to come forward again bury the needle, go into forward, andthen allow the machine to operate in the forward direction. left, right and center should onlybe done with the needle up because this does- oh, this has to be in straight stitch- thisdoes actually move the needle bar frame rather dramatically. if i were to do that with theneedle down, you can see what would happen.
notice i’m trying to move the bar and theneedle is bending in the fabric. the reason we don’t want to do that is that if you’rebending the needle, you would be likely to potentially drive the needle into somethingmetal that it shouldn’t be driven into down below.so those are the general rules for when to make adjustments to the stitch length andwidth based upon the needle position. i also want to show you on the straight stitch machinejust really briefly that the process is the same. we just don’t have the zigzag capability.okay, so i’m going to trap my threads like i always do after i drop my presser foot,and now i can sew along. when i reach a corner and i want to turn, i bury the needle, liftthe presser foot, and pivot on the needle
position. same thing for reverse. bury theneedle, now i can go into reverse, go forward, bury the needle and now i can go forward.i said forward before, but i meant back. under speed, i can adjust the length of the stitch,but that’s not really a very practical thing to do. of course with both machines, underspeed you can reverse and come forward again without any problems to lock your stitches.