About : tv stands for flat screens wood
Title : tv stands for flat screens wood
tv stands for flat screens wood
voiceover:wood whisperer is sponsored by powermatic, the gold standard since 1921 and by rockler woodworking and hardware, create with confidence. (lively music) marc:the whole point of whati wanted to do with this was to basically talk aboutmy personal sharpening method. the things that i use, the tools i use. i want to show you how quicki can go from a dull chisel
to a super sharp chiseland get back to work because really that's the ultimate goal. i want to show you the brands and the specific materials i use. i've been doing this for a while, i've been doing a lot of reviews and i get a good opportunity to work with differentmaterials, different tools and there's a lot ofsharpening gimmicks out there.
a lot of automated things and it's just a hundred and million ways that you could possiblyput an edge on a tool. honestly, i think they all work. it just is a matter ofwhat you want to stick with and try to get the best results from. having touched all these different things, i've gotten to a pointwhere i'm pretty comfortable with my particular setup
and i can certainly do it other ways but this is what i seem toconstantly gravitate toward and it really comes downto two primary goals for me when it comes to sharpening and that's number one, being very quick. if it takes me a long time to do this and i don't know ifvic is in the chat room but he recently just made hisdedicated sharpening basin which is really, really cool
if you get a chance to take a look at it. any type of sharpening station like that, it may seem like overkill but if you think about it, if you have a dedicatedplace to put your stuff out so whenever you need toput a new edge on a chisel or a plain blade, you just run over there,set it up, boom, boom, boom, you're back to work.
that's the key to having sharp tools is the convenience and the simplicity of your sharpening system. that's one thing. whatever i do, it's got to befast and it's got to be easy. the other things is i like to remove the least amount of stack possible. if i'm working with a grinder, that tends to remove alot of stack in a hurry
and that can really shortenthe life of your tools because you wind uptaking off more material than you really need. i mean a lot of times we'llget a chisel let's say from the factory, comes at usually what? 25 degrees. i like my chisels tohave a little bit more of an angle on them. i usually take mine to30, sometimes 35 degrees.
well what that means iswhen i start sharpening let's say at 30 degrees, ifthis were sharpened at 25, i'm really going to beworking heavily at the tip. do i need to sit there andgrind the heck out of it until i get the entirebevel up to my 30 degrees? no, you don't need to. all i need to do isstart working at the top and essentially i'm creatingkind of like a mini bevel or a micro bevel of sorts
and eventually overtime iwill get back to my angle. working with the stones is something that really allows me to have absolute complete control. you can have control on things like the tormek and thejet wet sharpener too. what's another one, worksharp is really good but for me i just likethe pleasant experience of working with stones.
i think it's a very flexible system despite the fact that it's probably one of the oldest systems. here's a quick look atthe stuff that i use. i actually do have another one of these but these are the threethat i use primarily. these are my shapton ceramic stones. okay, it's basically a waterstone, some sort of ceramiccomposite whatever, smuts.
all right, works like a waterstone. it wears a little bit betterthan a regular waterstone and that you don't need toflatten it quite as much. the other good thing isyou're just basically going to spray it and go. a lot of waterstones need to be soaked. you have to give themlike a half hour soak before you actually startto sharpen with them, not with the shapton.
you just spray it and you go. these are pretty good... well not pretty good, these are great. they're also very expensive but again if it leadsto a sharpening method that allows me to get back to work fast, i don't really care how much it costs because that means i'mgoing to actually use it. if i get a bargainsystem that's hard to use
and i never use it, that i really do myself any favors by saving money, not really. the grits that i have are1,000, 5,000 and then 8,000. the 8,000 i wouldconsider pretty optional. it's a good polishingstone, i do like to use it but i think technically you can get away with a one and a five. if you don't want to go asfar as buying shapton stones,
you could just get yourself some regular old norton waterstones. there's plenty ofjapanese brands out there for japanese waterstones. i think you probablyshould aim for something at least two surfaces,sometimes are two sided, so you can get one thatactually has a 1,000 and a 4,000, 1,000, 5,000 but try to get those in those ranges.
they don't have to beexactly those numbers but i think you shouldat least have something in the 1,000 range andsomething in the 5,000 range. now the other thing thati have in my collection is a dmt sharpening plate. the dmt plates are sort ofthis diamond embedded surface, it's a metal surface withdiamond grit on top of it. well i do use this when ineed to really work a bevel that needs a lot of work
because it's pretty aggressive. what did they rate this at? i think it's 120, what is it? 220. 220 is the grit of this surface. i'll use that to rework abevel but my primary thing and we'll do this at the very end, i use this to flatten my stones. if you're going to use waterstones, you better think about howyou're going to flatten them
because after every session, you have essentiallycreated dips and valleys in that stone which makeit less and less effective unless you actually start to fix it. the way you fix it is by flattening it up against a known flat surface. that's the primary functionof my dmt honing plate here. okay, and the other thing,my other critical item in my sharpening setup ismy veritas mk2 honing jig.
all right, this is anotherthing that's not cheap. you guys would know better than me what the current price is. i think it's about like 70bucks-ish, something like that but this is the mac daddy ofsharpening and honing guides. this thing is just awesome. you have the ability to setup any angle and whether it's achisel or a plain blade. you could setup prettymuch any angle you want
and the setup is really quick. you could very easily put a micro bevel on and we'll talk a littlebit about micro bevels a little bit later but thistool just makes it super easy. they even have attachmentson the roller down here. if you want to do like a camber blade maybe on a smoothing plain where you want to introducea nice little curvature to the tip of that blade.
you could do that with the cambered roller that allows you to kindof rocket back and forth as you're moving it over the stone. we should probably talk about guides and you'll find very distinctsort of a division of opinions on whether or not you should use a guide. i think most reasonable people say, "use whatever the heck you want" "and if you want to gofreehand, go freehand."
there are a lot of peoplewho have stronger opinions about which way is better. for me personally idon't care what you use, whatever gets the job done but for my shop, i like the honing jig. i'll put it this way. sharpening is one of those utility skills. i want to be able to do it quickly but i don't really think
i'm ever going to go to my friends and brag about how icould do this freehand. i don't really see any ... it doesn't really give me anygreat satisfaction necessarily to say that i could do this freehand. i mean i've done it a lot freehand and there are some chisels and things that won't necessarily fit in this so you may need to usethese freehand skills
but when i'm really justtrying to touch up an edge and i just want to get back to work as soon as possible. i'd much rather relyon this to be accurate than to rely on my hands to be accurate. truthfully i don't sharpen enough to necessarily become really, really good at doing this by hand. i'd rather put my time
into practicing other woodworking skills. this one is just somethingi feel like i could rely on and not feel bad about it. okay, so those are thematerials that i use. let's do a real quick touch up job on one of my chisels and i'm going to switch thecamera angle here for you. now this, the purpose of showing this is i want to show you howquickly i can get back to work
with a dull chisel. let's see, so i've gotthe honing jig here. i've got one of my japanese chisels, we could talk a little bitmore about the difference between a japanese chisel and a standard westernstyle chisel like this but basically i've got a dull chisel and i want to get back to work. i know the settings for this.
i know exactly when isharpened it at last time and there shouldn't be too much trouble to pop this thing into thejig, sharpen my micro bevel and get back to work,so let's do just that. now on the mk2. okay, it's going to takeme a little bit longer because obviously i'm explaining as i go. its got this little setup guide that slides on this littledovetail type groove,
dilly whacker thingy. all right, you basicallyhave a gauge on here that allows you to determinethe side to side location. what it does is helps you center this. if it's not centered, let's say your chisel is in here like so. oops, loosen it up. if it's not centered, whenyou start tightening down, you could skew the blade a little bit.
all right, if i'm towork over to this side, i'm going to start tightening. it becomes easier totighten this side down because we've got more slack and you wind up bending this bar and you could very well skew the chisel. your best bet is try to get it as close to center as possible and that's what thislittle jig helps you do.
it also has on the top,it's also got a scale and that scale helpsyou pick the exact angle that you're looking for, right? i actually have a 35 degree bevel on this. in fact it's a 35 degree bevel with a ... i don't know whether it's oneor two degree micro bevel, something like that. it's roughly a one inch chisel. i'm going to set this guyat one inch, tighten it down
and i've got the stophere set at 35 degrees. all right, so i could flipit over, install the chisel. now the idea to keep the chisel square, you have to ride it upagainst this edge right here. i'm just going to slideit up against the edge and push it forward until itmakes contact with the stop. once i'm there, i'm going tostart tightening the bar down, trying to keep it even on both sides, you don't want to over tighten one side
more than the other. tightening, tightening. your fingers will hurtafter a while if you do this a number of times. i flip it over, now ican get a better grip really tighten it down and now i can remove the gauge as i rip the skin off of my fingers. i had to love my old knobs, right.
this guy is pretty much ready to go. the thing is i do havea micro bevel on here and this little adjustment on the side is what allows me to veryquickly get an exact micro bevel. with the little pointer up,the micro bevel is not engaged. i want to turn it a couple clicks down so the arrow is facing down. that now means that i'm reallyjust working the very tip of my chisel bevel there.
all right, so i only wantto touch up the surface. i'm going to pretty much justgo to my 8,000 grit stone. oops, that's five. i'm going to go right to my eight, a little bit of water. it's also a good idea, yeah, no kidding. having pliers around with thisis probably really good idea just don't mangle the breast knobs. take a sharpie.
it's a real good idea toalways mark up that bevel so you know exactly whenyou remove the material. let's see how we did here. just a couple light strokes that will give you anidea of your progress. i don't know how well you'regoing to see this on a live cam and i'll try to move acouple different angles here but you see that little eighthof an inch area at the tip, that is my micro bevel,that's what i'm hitting.
you notice the sharpie markeris gone from that very tip. all right, so what i'mreally looking to do when i'm touching up like this is to take a few strokes, remove that ink so i know that i'm in the right spot and once the ink is gone, i don't know, maybe 15, 20 strokes like this. now i am at 8,000 grit. if you've watched anyone sharpen
or heard anyone talk about sharpening, you know we talk about feeling that burr. see if you could feel a burr on the back and that's how you know themetal is right at the tip because it's beingpushed up over the edge. all right, so you should beable to feel a very fine burr. at 8,000 grit, it's notgoing to be too substantial but it's still there. now, that's all i need to do.
let me loosen this guy up. all right, we do wantto get rid of that burr so right back onto the 8,000 grit. just going to addressthe back of the chisel. use a very light touch. really not putting much pressure at all. i'm pretty much letting the chisels wait, do the work here and that's it. all i wanted to do wasremove that little burr
and now this guy is razor sharp again. subtract all the talking and explaining, this would have been maybe a30 second procedure at best and now this guy is ready for work. that right there is thereason why i like this system because i can thatquickly sharpen the chisel and be back to work. now of course there is alot of preparation work that goes into making this chisel
ready for this type of action. we should probably talka little bit about that. let me get one of my other chisels here. all right, so a lot of times a new chisel or let's say an oldchisel that's new to you, you don't necessarily knowexactly what the bevel is. you first have to make that decision. what bevel angle do you want to sharpen to and what we'll do is take, i'vegot a couple of chisels here
that honestly these are very, my utility chisels i call them. they got a lot of glue and stuff on them and i kind of just sharpen them. i don't care too muchabout the bevel length because i'm just really removing glue and doing a lot of utility work. let's pretend someone gaveyou a brand new chisel and you really want to getthis thing sharpened up
for [joinery] basically. all right, so let's sharpenthat guy up from scratch for the most part. i will go pretty quicklythrough this process because again, i don't want this to be like a top to bottomsharpening explanation just more or less the tricksthat i use to get there. bevel lengths, if you are ... i'll just going to keep thecamera angle where it is
even though you can'tsee my face, how's this? what's up baby? if you are doing pairing, you've got a work piece and you're running the chiselat a very low angle like this and you're just kind ofpeeling material away, that's a paring action. you could probably get awaywith like 15 to 20 degrees. that's pretty fine.
the drawback of something likethat is it's not real durable. it's a very shallow bevel and you wind up having a veryweak spot at the very tip because there's not a lotof meat behind the tip to resist it from breaking,cracking and things like that. that's why you usually reserve a low angle for a paring action. you go to the opposite end of the scale, let's say you're doing mortising
and you have a mortising chisel. you may go as high as 40, 45 degrees because you need a lot ofmaterial to back that edge up. you don't want it to split because you're smacking on that thing with a mallet or a hammer and that's really a lot oftorture to put a chisel through. if you are just doing yourstandard set of bench chisels, personal preference comes to play.
well factory, they comeat typically 25 degrees. you could either keep it at 25 or you could step it up to 30. you can go as high as 35. i know for me on my marbles, they tend to chip at theedge a little bit too much. for me personally i like totake it from their factory 25 and raise it up to 30and sometimes 35 degrees and that just works for me better.
i value the durability more than i value the ability to pair and i don't pair quite as often as i chop. it's all about personal preference. now if i received this chiselfrom a friend or someone else, it might not be a friend, doesn't matter. i want it to ... i meanthere are angle gauges and you could probably measure this to figure out exactly what it's at.
i don't know if it's that big of a deal because i know what i want it to be. chances are it's going to be 25-ish. what i'm going to do is setup my mk2 here. let me put this back down. i'm going to set this guy up for ... let's go for 30 degrees. just getting everything in place. take the micro bevel off,
that's something i tendto forget to do a lot. you could always add the micro bevel later but it really confuses things if you leave the micro bevelon and just start sharpening. let's see, i wanted to go 30 degrees and i'm using the standard angle setting. i will set my stop righthere at 30 degrees. i'm using what they ... it's labeled as standard angles.
it's the yellow settingin the middle, 30 degrees. now i could slide this bad boy on and i'm looking at maybe a three quarter inch wide chisel roughly. i'm going to set this on the scale on about three quarters. it doesn't have to beperfect, flip it over, slide the chisel in. once again, up against the side,
push it forward until it hits the stop and i like to sightdown so that i could see if i'm tilting one way or the other. if you look here you can kind of see if you start to go toofar in one direction. i want it to be niceand even on both sides. tighten it up, tighten it up. now i can remove the gauge. that's the one that hurts the most.
it really does. all right, so new chisel. this bevel is probablyin really sad shape. this is one of those times especially when it's new to me whether it's brand newor not is irrelevant as long as it's new to me. i'm going to give it this treatment. you know what i forgot to do?
dumb me. you know what the problem is, this chisel is not new tome so i wasn't thinking. you see this area in the back here. the light hits it just the right way. you could see that thebottom maybe two inches is a different consistency,different look than the back. it's because this hasbeen flat and dead flat. that is number one, numero uno.
silly me for not catching that. i'm sure, i haven't beenreading the chat room and i guarantee somebodyhas already said that. if you have a new chisel, the very first thing you need to do is make sure that thatback is flat, all right. this is something thatcan take a long time depending on how bad this chisel is. you're basically going to start
on the lowest grit you've got. keep rubbing the edge. you don't necessarilyneed to go back this far and technically you only maybe need the bottom half inch or so. depending on how you want to do it. you could hang it off the edge like this and just work the veryfront three quarter, half inch, inch
but usually you needenough to make it stable. your goal is to createa perfectly flat back. if you don't do this, thingsjust don't work right. all that work that we'regoing to do on the bevel, looking for the burr, all of that depends onhaving a perfectly flat back. if you're using thisfor pairing operations. you need that flat back because you're going tobe referencing that off of
a lot of flat surfaces. if it's not flat, that's a problem. if you're chopping and youwant to create nice flat walls for mortises and straightwalls and things like that, you need a nice flat reference surface. numero uno is to create a flat back and you're basically going to take that through all of yourgrits all the way on up to your highest grit, whatever it is.
polish that bad boy up. if you can, try to make it so that you couldsee your pretty face in it. this is now the 8,000 grit stone. what we're doing is using our imaginations to pretend that i have gonethrough all of the grits and once you're at your final grit, everything looks nice and clean and consistent on that surface.
of course feel free to use your sharpie to make the marks and you can determine if it is. you're basically ready to go and start working on the bevel. it's a very important thing but it's very tedious to demonstrate and to show from beginning to end because on some chiselsit can take a long time.
incidentally that's what makesa japanese chisel so great in my personal opinion is because japanese chiselshave a little hollow and in some cases multiple hollows. those hollows mean you don't have to sharpenall that material. i mean look at the actualsurface area of metal that needs to be sharpened on this one versus the japanese style.
all i need to do is makesure that that area, the parameter is nice and smooth and flat. just a little fyi. we are assuming that the back is flat now and we could setup for the bevel. hopefully that wasn't too confusing. now i'm going to reassemblejust like we did before. setting up for 30 degree bevel. tighten it up,
loosen this do-hickey. right, now we are ready to roll. now again, new bevel, new chisel. back is perfectly flat. i'm going to start in my lowest grit here because i just want tosee what we're up against. if you got this from afriend, chances are ... unless your friend happens tobe a very picky woodworker. the chisel is probably going to be mangled
and if it's brand new, it may not be the bevel angle you want so you're going to haveto contend with this no matter what. sharpie gives me a niceblack surface there so i could determinewhat we're doing here. this is 220 grit, this is very rough. another reason why ilike the honing guides for this type of thing
is because i could reallyzone out while i'm doing this. i don't have to worryabout absolutely paying, don't get me wrong, that sounds bad. i pay attention but i canhave like the radio on and maybe a movie or something. obviously safety, safety, becareful with what you're doing but i can definitely saythat with a honing guide, it does not require as much attention as freehand sharpening.
take the water off. you could see what we've done. we've removed the material from the front part of that bevel which is actually a good sign. that means that we are pretty close to the angle we need. clearly the back of this bevelhere is not at 30 degrees but this area that we justcleaned up is exactly 30 degrees.
truthfully we don't need thisto be 30 degrees just yet. i don't feel the need todo anything else with that. i just want to make surethat i get to the 30 degrees between here and the very tip. i'll give it a little bit more time and we'll get pretty close. (metal scraping) that is right up to the edge. now interestingly enough, you can't see it
because it's got a veryfine micro bevel on there but at the very tip there'sabout a 16th of an inch line all the way across because i did create amicro bevel with this one. i sharpened at 30 toestablish the primary bevel and then the secondary micro bevel is sharpened just a coupledegrees more than that. again, we're using our imaginations here. i'm actually just goingto remove my micro bevel
just to make it simple. as if this were a borrowedchisel or a hand me down for a 25 degree factory chisel. all right, i feel the bevel on the back. we are right up to the edge. here's the thing. i'm really only concerned about the micro bevel at this point. now granted, i did justsharpen this with 220 grit.
if you want to, if you want to be alittle bit picky about it, we could take it to the 1,000 grit and sharpen up that primarybevel, 30 degree bevel, just to smooth it out a little bit. here's the thing, once i putthat micro bevel on there, that primary bevel doesn'treally matter as much. i don't feel the need topolish that up to 8,000. 1,000 will get it pretty darn nice.
i just cleaned that up with a 1,000. i don't know man, that'slooking pretty good. here's the idea. remember i said thatthis thing has a built in micro bevel adjustment so i'm going to turn this knob downward. what that does is adjust the roller. it's on the cam, right. the roller now is sittingdown lower than it was before
which effectively raisesthe back of the chisel and means that i'm justby a couple degrees working at the very tip now. what i'm going to do isstart with my 1,000 grit and watch how fast this goes. this is very quick process. be careful when you're first working that very tip of the edge as it can be easy to gauge a waterstone
if you're not careful, so just a light to moderate pressure. feel the back. you should start to feela real substantial bevel now that you're working right at that tip and i hope you can makethis out on a live cam here. i'll move it, hopefullythe light will catch it. look at the very tip. you should start to see
about just over a 16th of an inch line right at the tip there. that is the micro bevelthat we're establishing. that is the business end so that when we come backto re-sharpen this chisel a month from now, we know the exact setting we can get to, to hit that micro bevel perfectly. we're only at a 1,000 grit right now.
let's go ahead and move to 5,000. you could certainly spenda little bit more time on each stone if you choose to. it's also a good idea to spray. you'll notice i do this in between. i spray everything withwater to get the lower grit off of the roller and off of the chisel. i don't want to carrythat low grit with me. now every time you're approaching a stone,
you have to be careful with the roller. you don't want the rollerto go over the edge or tip over the side. you still want to make an effort to try to wear the entire surface evenly so you'll notice i kind ofdo a little back and forth angling one way and angle the other way, back the other way. maybe flip the whole stone around.
okay. it's looking good. clean it up. move to 8,000 and now we are putting a beautiful polish at 8,000 grit. once again i will try to ... see if you can catchthat angle just right. that micro bevel just acouple degrees more than 30.
you're looking at what, idon't know what, 31, 32. does anybody know whatthe mk2s micro bevel is? it can't be more thanlike two degrees, right? that is now polished to 8,000. i still have a little bit of a burr and we need to take care of that. let me loosen the chisel, we can now remove it carefully. 8,000 grit because that was the last thing
i touched my flat back with, right? we want to just touchit up to remove the burr that we created from sharpening the bevel. nice light touch. you'll notice especiallywhen you're doing something that's perfectly flat like the back on a very fine grit stone, the water tends to reallypull that chisel in. i mean i'm not even holding that.
that way you could seeit, eventually will break but what is that, cohesion or adhesion? i can't even remember. anyway, you could seeit really sucks it in and holds it in place so you don't have to do much work other than move it back and forth and then when you removeit, don't lift the handle up because that puts the sharpedge down into the stone,
that's a bad idea. push down on the handleand break the suction and that will make sure that your bevel is intact and unharmed. now we have beautifulmicro bevel ready to roll and that again was sortof simulating a chisel that was given to us by someone. or a brand new chisel that we now have at our perfect 30 degrees.
remember, i also mentionednot removing more material than we need to. that's basically what i was talking about when i didn't reestablishthe entire bevel. if i took this chisel over to my grinder instead i want to put the entire bevel at 30 degrees or 35 degrees, i'd have to remove quite abit of material to get there. i'd rather not do that if i don't have to.
i'm only going to remove as much material as is necessary to get thebusiness end of this chisel to do exactly what i want it to do and i worry about this later. eventually after a coupleof years of sharpening, we'll work our way back. there's no rush to get there. the real business end of thebevel is right at the tip and that's why a microbevel is as useful as it is,
very handy. in a nutshell, that'smy sharpening system. the shapton stones and the three grits, the dmt sharpening plate and the veritas mk2 sharpeningguide, honing guide. the one thing i do want to show you before i go to answer questions is how delicious our water is here. typically when it's timeto flatten these stones,
what i like to do is go out to the hose. it's just much easier to do outside because it kind of makes a real big mess and i like to be able to cleanthe stones off completely before moving to the next stone and i don't want to contaminate one stone with the grit from another. basically what i do is take my dmt stone, i lay it down flat on the table.
make sure it's nice and wet. soak it with a hose andthen i take my stones, drop them on the surface and remember i was talkingabout how the chisel, the flat end of the chiselsucks down to of the surface. the same thing reallyhappens with your stones. you can just push them forward and back and nice long strokes like this and you see, i like to angleit one way and the other
just to kind of help promote even wearing. what will happen is,let's break the suction. let me spray it. you'll see that there is a little bit of a dark spot right there but everything else isnice and clean looking. the dark spot represents a low spot. that's a spot that needs to be flattened a little bit more.
i will keep working this back and forth until there is no more dark spots, so there are no more dark spots. sometimes you got to puta little muscle into it. that is now perfectly clean, that's what you're going for. the thing is with waterstones, you really want to do thisafter every sharpening session. if you've got a ton of sharpening to do,
you may have to do it in between while you're in the middleof a sharpening session just to make sure that yourstones are staying flat. your finer stones will wear quicker. if you have your 8,000 and 5,000 and you're doing a lot of polishing, you're probably going to want to have a couple of flattening sessions during a single sharpening session
if you're using it a lot. how much? i mean it kind of just depends. generally speaking i'll sharpenmy whole set of chisels. what do i have? one,two, three, four, five, about six chisels. i'll sharpen them all in one session and then flatten at the end when i'm done. kind of like we're doing right now. one chisel sharpening like that,
i don't know if i wouldflatten after just doing one with touch up. you can if you want to but that's really for the most part that's about it for my system. now again i didn't really want to pretend that this was your fullscale of sharpening thing. i do plan to do a fullsharpening video in the future on the wood whisperer site.
we'll be able to do that and cover pretty much all theother types of sharpening that are out there. a little bit more detail about the bevel and the flattening of the back but for this i really justwanted to put it out there so people know exactly what materials, what tools, what brandsi use to do my stuff and i find it easiest.
doesn't mean that theother stuff doesn't work because i know there's probably, most of the people inthe chat room right now probably use different methods to get the same results,that's perfectly fine. it is what it is. want to go into the chat room see if there's any questions. what kind japanese chisels do i use?
i use a brand calledfujihiro from hida tool. if anybody can put the linkup in the chat room for me. h-i-d-a tool, i think it's hidatool.com. they have a lot ofjapanese woodworking tools and cutlery and things like that and the particular brand or the family that i have for mine isfujihiro, f-u-j-i-h-i-r-o. pricy for sure. would using cheap stones,you'll have better results
than a scary sharp sandpaper method. i don't think so rumble dude. scary sharp can producepretty darn good results. grant it, you're limited by how fine of a sandpaper you can get to but i know in terms of justgetting a good sharp chisel for woodworking stuff i don't know that you can do equally well with both systems personally.
if it's a super cheapwaterstone, i don't know. i mean i haven't really worked much with really cheap waterstones. in the beginning i think i bought a fairly cheap one from rockler. i didn't get good results with it but it wasn't because of the stone, it was more because of how i was using it and i didn't know much about it
but again, any sharpening medium. the thing i find with sharpening is its actually more important that you stick with one thing. you learn it and you get good at it because we keep trying abunch of different things, you'll never get good at any of them and they're all capable ofproducing good utility edge that can get the job done in the shop.
kind of depends on your budget and what type of thing interests you. personally i think waterstoneshave more longevity in the shop. i don't want to buy sandpaper constantly, sticking the sandpaper down to a surface is kind of a pain in the buttbut it is cost of [entry], it's much cheaper. how hard is it to gofrom the factory degree
up to let's say well, yeah. i think sean had answeredthe question perfectly. don't try and go from 25or 20 to 40 in one shot. there's no reason to. that's what i was explainingabout the grinder. if you wanted to reset the bevel, you could take it to a slow grinder and you could put it at40 degrees or 45 degrees whatever you want.
there's really no reason, there's no rush to take it right to 45 degrees. you could slowly get there overtime just working the front of the bevel and eventually you will get there but there's just no reasonto remove that much metal just so that the entireprimary bevel is at 40 degrees. just take your time to get there slowly. if you use a grinder toanswer your question,
how fast? seconds. if you got a good grinder, you can just, sparks later. got yourself 40 degrees. yeah, i'm not too fond of ... i've got a pretty fine stone, an adult variable speedgrinder over there. frankly i don't use it for much especially for my woodworking tools.
just because of this method that i use of wearing about justthe tip of the bevel, i just don't really findthe need to grind a tool just very much. i do have a jet wet sharpener. that's kind of the exceptionin the grinding world because it's a wet grinding stone and it's a much slower grinding, it doesn't heat up asmuch, it's much safer.
if i drop this chisel on aconcrete and needed to fix it, i might take it to my jet at that point. it will still take a whileto clean up that edge but it will be a little bit faster in doing it in the stones here. i would use that to get back to square one and then go back to my stones but i got that years ago and i thought it would answer
all of my problems for sharpening and it's good and it certainly can beyour only sharpening system. for me personally i just kept gravitating back to the stones. what happens if yousharpen back to the hollows of the japanese chisels? well, you probably willneed to flatten the back where's the camera angle here.
you see where those hollows are. the way to get those hollows back is to remove more material from the back of the chisel, the flat of the chisel willexpose more flat surface. if you start to get too close, you just do a littlebit more heavy duty work on the flat of the chisel and that should sort of giveyou a little bit more room
to do all of your sharpening. as you work that bevel, 10 years from now, you keep working that bevel and it works back to the very tip, that's when you're going to have to do a little bit more effort onthe bottom of the chisel, the back of the chisel to help you get a littlebit more surface area. the truth is for folks like us,
i would say the vast majorityof us get a couple ... well, i say us but i get more shop time than most people but even for me with regular chisel use at my style of woodworking, it's going to take me a damn long time before i approach thehollows of my chisel. do i ever strap? i do not. i just never really, i don'thave anything against it.
i think it's pretty effective and especially if you uselike a wet sharpening system. you can only get to a certain grit and that's based on howyou grade the stone. they usually have thatrough in the fine grit. the other side of thosewet sharpening systems is a circular strap that you could put a honing compound on and i mean the thing is,that is a very good way
to put a super sharp edge on a chisel that hasn't necessarily been taken to the highest grit possible. you know how i sharpenthe secondary bevel here and i really only focuson that very little tip at the fine grit. i didn't sharpen theentire bevel to 8,000 grit, the entire primary bevel because you don't need to.
the same thing applies overthere on a system like that. if you have the bevel mostly sharp and relatively smooth withwhatever degree you want, you could then go to a strap and just hit that secondarybevel at that really high grit and then just get arazor sharp edge from it. it's perfectly legitimate. i just don't really do it myself.