About : tv stand wood amazon
Title : tv stand wood amazon
tv stand wood amazon
voiceover:the wood whispereris brought to you by powermatic, the gold standard since 1921 and by rockler woodworking and hardware, create with confidence. (lively music) marc:who doesn't love autumn? i mean the temperaturesare getting cooler. finally i could go outsideand my face doesn't melt. football is on and if you're a parent,
your kids are going back to school but if you're a student, obviously this is not yourfavorite time of year. for me it ushers in a period of the year that i could focus on smaller projects and a lot of fun littleprojects that i can give away as a gift. it's just a real funtime of the year for me. now in the past we'vedone christmas projects,
most of the times what we focus on but there's a few projects out there that you can do for things like halloween. if you want to get in to the spirit, how about some nice halloween bowls. a lot of people think that bowls, the only way you couldmake them is on a [lade] but it's not true. you can make bowls anumber of different ways
and one of those is with a router. eagle america has these great kits, not only for halloweenbut also for christmas and maybe we'll do one of those but right now i want tofocus on the halloween ones. i've got a couple templates here and you could see i'vegot one that's a witch, that's an upside down witch. a witch's head, the hat is on the top
and her pointy littlenose is on the bottom. this is half of a bat so youwould have to flip it over to get the other half and this one seems to bethe one that is most popular at least in the spagnuolohouse, is the ghost. the idea here is that by using a router and a special type of bit and one of these templates, you could make these awesome little bowls.
they're very, very cool. that's what we're going to do today. we're going to make some halloween bowls using these eagle america kits. now the templates themselvesare just made from plastic and i think if you'resufficiently motivated and artistically inclined, you could certainly makesomething like this yourself but for me it's just a loteasier to buy one of these kits.
they still have the paper on them. it gives you an idea of what the shape is. you could buy each one of these. i believe these are the only three that they have right now. you can also get a few thingsto make this process easier, for instance they sell a big plate like this for your router and what that does is makes the process
of balancing your router over this opening as you hollow out the material just makes it a lot easier because you've got a lotmore support with a big old, what is this, probably12 by 12 base like this. also you may want to consider the bit. you're going to need apattern bit to make this as a bearing on the top and the cutterhead is here on the bottom
and that will ride around thetemplate and hollow it out. the thing is you need a special bit. now you can go with a standard pattern bit that has a square edge on it. the problem is it's going to create a real tight sharp corner. with a bowl it looks a little bit nicer if you have a rounded corner. these bits are sort ofspecialized for this task
and create a nice interior corner and that's a little bitmore pleasant to look at. the one that i'm going tomake today is the ghost. primarily because that'swhat the boss wants and secondarily because it's probably one of the easier ones out of the three. the stock for this accordingto the instructions, they recommend at least two inches thick. think about it.
the thicker it is, the deeper your bowl is going to be. if you go less than two, it may start to get a little bit fragile and it may be more of a tray than a bowl but that's perfectly fine too because if you're justputting candy in it, it doesn't really needto be all that deep. of course you could godeeper if you wanted to.
the way i'm going to get the stock is i mean there's a numberof ways you could do this. if you don't have reallywide or really thick stock, you're going to have to glue the pieces up to get the size that you need. you may also look intopossibly like a platter plank that someone would use for turning and to turn a big platter. you might be able to find a stock
with the dimensionsthat you're looking for but most likely you'regoing to have to glue up from smaller pieces. for me what i have is some leftover stock from my threshold table project and i'm lucky enoughthat this stuff is wide and can handle theentire ghost in one shot without having to gluemultiple pieces together. of course to do thiseven if you glue them up
you're still going to need to flatten these pieces afterthe glue up goes together. you guys know i talkedabout this hybrid approach to woodworking using powertools and hand tools. well, that's critical in this part because you can't joint a board this wide. let me show you the technique that i use to get to this point where i'm ready to gluethese two pieces together.
what i've got here is a piece of mahogany in the bench ready to go and what i want to do,the primary goal here is to get one side flat enough. i'm not looking forabsolute perfection here. if you're good with your hand planes and you want to do that, there's no reason whyyou can't go all the way with the hand planes.
i just want to get it flat enough so that i can get accurateregistration on my planer. i've got my number five plane here and before i do any removal of wood, i need to know what i'm up against. a straight edge will help me determine what i'm looking at. basically i want to sightfrom the side here like this and see what we're dealing with.
when i place the straightedge across this way, i could see i've gotsome low points in here over on this side, low points over here, littlebit of a low point there. run it across this way, you could see we'rehigh in the middle here. pretty comparable, we'rehigh in the middle here. if you have a set of winding sticks which i don't really have
but i've got a piece ofwood that i know is straight and i've got a straight edgethat i know is straight. i could use those todetermine if there's any twist by sighting down from this angle. as you look from thatend, these winding sticks will essentially exaggerate the twist and you could see we definitely have sometwist to deal with. this end looks high.
the first thing we need to do is remove some materialfrom this back corner to remove the twist from the board. i know what a lot of you were thinking, you're relatively new tothe sport of woodworking and you're thinking that you don't have the hand plane skills to accomplish this. well guess what? neither do i but i'm notgoing to let it stop me.
the point is i'm not really trying to get a perfectly flat surface here. what i'm going to do istry and get a surface that's stable so that i could pass it through the planer and let the planer do the work. here's the thing, first thing i want to do is start removing that material and what i have here is a number five.
quite frankly you canuse just about any plane you've got in your arsenal. just set it so that it's takinga relatively aggressive cut. you probably don't wantto use your smoother here because it will take you forever. as long as i start removingsome of this stock, i'm headed in the right direction. now i'm not going to showyou this entire process because this does takea little bit of time
but i want to get throughthe main primary points here. once we've removed the twist, we could start focusingon getting this thing so it sits nice and stable in that planer and the way i'm going to do it is not necessarily by aiming for flat. what i'm going to aimfor is slightly concaved. if i could remove a little bit of extramaterial from the middle,
all i have to focus on is my outside edges to make sure that thoseare nice and straight and there's no twist. if that's the case, i couldthen flip this puppy over, send it through the planer,perfectly stable, no problems. this is why i say, you don't need to be an absolute expert in hand planes to get this done. set your plane for an aggressive cut again
and we're just going toplane some stock here from the center. it's rough going here at first obviously but we'll get it after a few passes. at this rough stage don't be afraid to go diagonal and cross grain. now i've got a sufficientamount of material removed from the middle and when i place my straight edge on here,
i could see we've gota nice gap down there that tells me we've got a concave surface. i know that there's no twistbecause i've checked it with my winding sticks. really all i want to do at this point is make sure that the edges are relatively smooth and flat so that this thing rides throughthe planer nice and smooth. just a couple passes here.
right on the edge like this, that's really all you need and that's going to registerperfectly on the planer. now that you get the idea forhow the pieces are prepped, i'm going to go ahead andglue these two together. (upbeat music) probably we should have cut these parts to the same size before doing this but i never said i was smart.
my glue has had plenty of time to cure and now we can trace on the shape of our little ghost. nothing really tricky here, just place it whereveryou think it looks good. if you see any flaws in the surface, you want to avoid those and you want to make sure that you realize this is just the inside of the bowl.
you're going to need a lip on the outside and i guess you could makeit as thick as you want but you probably want to give yourself at least a half inchthere just to be sure. i don't want to go too close to the edge. i was worried about this line here but it is what it is. i guess i could alwaysangle my ghost this way to avoid it if i wanted to.
let's do that, right about there. i'm just going to take a sharp pencil and trace the inside shape. on my drill press, i'm going to use a forstner bit, in fact it's the biggest one i happen to have and sharpest. i'm going to use that to plow away
the bulk of the material here. there's no reason to useyour router for all this. it's going to basically save wear and tear on your bit and on the router itself. the only thing we needto be concerned about is the depth, how fardown does this bit go. now i've got a mark hereabout five-eighths of an inch and the instructions tell me that you want at least a halfinch bottom for this bowl.
at five-eighths i think, aslong as i'm a little bit over i'm fine with that. i'm going to use that lineto set the depth of the bit and right about there should do the trick. one down, a couple thousand to go. now before doing any router, i'm going to attach the template to the work piece with screws. normally i use double sticktape for this kind of thing
but i don't really wantto take any chances that this is going to move on me. a couple of countersunkscrews will do the trick. two things to be very careful of here, number one, you want to make sure that the countersink is deep enough that the screw doesn'tsit [out] of the surface because that will getin the way of our router and the second thing isyou want to make sure
that these screws arewell inside the waist that we'll be cutting away later and these are definitely way out there. now i've got my routeroutfitted with a plastic base. that's going to give meall the extra support that i need to span that gap and i even have my router bit in here which is the special pattern bit with the rounded bottom,
that's going to be perfectfor making this bowl. now the first pass that i'm going to take is going to be around the perimeter and the idea is i want to be very careful because i still have alot of material to remove and all those waves from the router bit or from the forstner bit. every time the bit confrontsone of those waves, it's going to want to push it along.
it's all of the suddena big chunk of material. you have to take it slow and just make sure we makethat first pass around without going too fast. we'll take our time with it. for this first pass, i'mgoing to set my bit height so that the bearing is justabove my plexiglass base which means it will ride nice and secure against the template.
push it down and lock it in place. that looks good. now we're ready to rock and roll. you can see we're startingto establish our shape nicely here. it's starting to look really good. i think i'm going to getrid of this big giant piece of material here that just looks like it is going to be trouble.
now i'm going to lower thebit about a quarter inch more and i'm just going tokeep going lower and lower until i reach the full extent or until i reach the bottom. it depends on your setup,how deep your bowl is. it depends on your router. now you'll notice that eventually the bearing comes off of the template and it starts riding alongthe surface of the wood
which is perfectly fine because the wood is thesame shape as the template. just keep going down, down, down until you hit the bottom. now i'm going to remove the template because at this point it's notreally serving any purpose. this will allow me toget a little bit more out of my router bit. now i'm getting ready todo my final clean up pass
and you could tell basically because the bit is contacting the bottom which means when i start the router, i'm going to either startit with it lifted up and then slowly bring it down. i probably will do the perimeter first and then work my way sort offree form in the center areas and hopefully we'll clean it all out and it'll be an eventful.
now that pretty much does it. it's a pretty nice smooth bottom. the corners are nice. a little bit of sanding, i don't think it's goingto need much more work. now there are a few high points that i couldn't hit with the router and frankly i'm blind wheni have the router out there, i can't see anything.
it's going to be a littletricky to get those. i'm just going to use achisel with the bevel down like this and i'll be able to flatten that area out and remove the excess material. now we're going to need to trace around the outsideperimeter using a compass just to basically create the rim. again this is something that's adjustable,
depends on what yourpersonal preference is. i'm going for a littlebit over a half inch here and i'm just going to trace around. now at the bandsaw, i've got a nice narrow blade here that's going to be very helpful for getting around all thesetight corners and things and i'm just going to take my time. this is not something you want to rush
so i'm going to try andtrace around very carefully and get as close to myline as i possibly can. the better i am at this, theless i'm going to sand later. even though i have a pretty narrow blade, i still like to make reliefcuts in the deep valleys whenever possible. this takes a lot of pressure off the blade when it comes time toturn those sharp corners. also keep in mind that the sharper
you make those inside corners, the harder it's going to be to sand. i'm keeping mine relatively round. i do the final shaping on the outside using an oscillating spindle sander. now with the bulk of the outside sanded, i have to get all ofthese little parts here. if you don't have anoscillating spindle sander, that's okay.
you can still get most of these with a sanding block of some sort and i'll show you a couplelittle sanding implements that i have that reallymake this go faster but at this point reallythere's nothing left to do but put it in the bench and start sanding. i'm going to use mostly here are these little sanding helpers. they're just rubber, flexible sanding pads
and you sort of justwrap a piece of sandpaper around them like this and you could really getdown into those tight areas and just kind of wrap around here. if you want to, youcould use the other end and you could see some ofthem have different profiles and you could try to match the profile of some of these inner curves. sand this way, roll it through like that.
it's a lot of differentthings that you can do but there's no way to get around it. you need to sand a lot here to make sure that the end grain looks good and the side grain looks good. now with the outside sanded to a 180 grit, of course you can go to 220 if you like. 180 is where i like to stop. we've got to sand the inside here
and this is not the easiest thing to do. you're going to have to get creative and do the best you can. the good news is that thesurface left by the router bit is pretty darn smooth. honestly it doesn'tneed a whole lot of work but for the most part in here, i think this is goingto have to be by hand. all these inside, sidewalls,this little curvature here,
down at the bottom but unfortunately your fingers are actually pretty good sandingblocks for stuff like this. just take your time and get it right. one thing that may windup getting you here is these really deep corners in there. a little bit tricky to get to. i found that if i've gotsome burning down there, my flexcut carving tools
will sort of have thisinterchangeable handle. i've got various differentprofiles that i can use and those are very, very handy for getting down into these corners and just kind of scooping up a little bit and pulling out some wood. these are very sharp so a couple of strokes is all it takes to get the burnt stuff off
and then if you can try and squeeze some sandpaper downthere and smooth it out. now of course with a candy dish like this, or really any wood working project. you want to make sure that your corners are broken to some extent. just a little bit ofsandpaper is all it takes to ease the edges and thatwill stop little hands from getting splinters andcuts and things like that.
or you could take it tothe extent that i did. you could use your small round over bit on all these edges togive it a nice clean, consistent and soft look. of course you want to do the inside edge, the outside edge and this bottom edge too. now let's talk a littlebit about the finish for our little ghost here. honestly, you could usejust about anything.
if you like oils, go ahead and use an oil. if you like a varnish, goahead and use a varnish, water base, whatever you want. i don't see any reasonwhy this particular thing needs to be food safe because although you maybe putting candy in there, it's going to be either hardcandy or pre-wrapped candy. food exposure reallyisn't much of a concern. for me a decent durablefinish that dries quickly
is going to be the key because i may make multiplesof these and if i do, i want to make sure thati could spray them all with finish, get themto dry really quickly. oil-based finishes, it takesa couple of days, right? to get the finish on there,let it dry, sand it back and this process takes a couple of days. well, if you're trying toget through these things in a weekend, that can bekind of an inconvenience.
a quick drying finish is great and this water based varnishes these days are really, really good. that's what i'm going to go for and i'll probably justspray out in my driveway on some sawhorses. now if you've used waterbased finishes before, you know that as soon asthat material hits the wood and the wood dries, it gets really rough.
you want to pre-raise the grain by spraying it with some water. i just use a spray bottle, give it a good soak and come back with a paper towel and wipe up all that extra stuff. you don't really want it to pool so much but you just want it saturated briefly and then dry it off.
what that will do israise that grain for us so we can sand it one more time back with a maybe 220, 180, whatever your preference is and then we could startapplying our coats of finish. the hvlp gun has three fan settings, vertical, horizontal and circular. for an oddly shape piece like this, you'll probably want to useall three strategically.
once the top dries, ican flip the piece over and finish the bottom. i'll apply a total of four coats with 400 grits sanding in between. here is my ghost bowl. i think i will name him casper. this project was a lot offun, really straight forward. i wouldn't really say thatthere's any twists to it or anything that's going to surprise you.
the one thing i will warn you though is to be very careful about the thickness. if you go too thick on this, most routers will have aproblem extending the bit far enough when you plunge down so that you can actuallyclean out the bottom. i just barely made it with my router so i cut it very, very close. it's something i recommend yousort of look at your router,
plunge it all the way down and just make sure you know how far you can get in terms of depth before you make your decisions on how thick to go and howthick to leave the bottom. i will mention about the finish here. this water based finishis fantastic stuff. i've got about fourcoats on here in one day. a project like this reallycan be a weekend thing.
you do part of the project, the building stuff on saturday. sunday you can come outand take care of the finish as long as you use a quick drying finish. i'm very happy with the results. i hope you guys take the time to build one or six of these. again with these gift projects, i always recommend batching them out.
if you do one and you show somebody, i guarantee you're going to get a request for about five or six. you may as well build those to start. i've got some of the other templates that i promised some peoplealready that i'd make. i got to get back to work but before i do, let's fill this puppy with some candy. now we add the candy.
unfortunately it's only 70to 80 calories per pack. we like the good candyin the spagnuolo house, not the cheap stuff. for some people this could be a problem, it's still a couple ofweeks before halloween and you have to sit hereand look at all these delicious wonderful candy until then but fortunately i have littlething called self-control. (joyful music)
nicole:marc, i'm home. marc:chocolate? i'll try that one. (nicole laughs) marc:(laughs) what's that? i expected this to be much more fun like a willy wonka moment. marc:damn we need a bigger ledge. you got to get in there.
nicole:i don't want alot, i just put makeup on. marc:well, whose fault is that? i'm hurting my knees, [unintelligible]. i mean clearly you havemuch more experience spreading chocolate on people than i do.