About : standard furniture bar stools
Title : standard furniture bar stools
standard furniture bar stools
this video is brought to you by sailrite.visit sailrite.com for all your project supplies, tools and instructions.this video tutorial will show the steps required to make your own side curtain enclosure panels.every detail from patterning, sewing, and installing zippers and fasteners will be shown.making your own enclosure curtains may save you thousands compared to having a canvasshop to do it. it’s not as difficult as it looks, especially after watching this video.purchase all the supplies needed to make enclosure curtains at sailrite. let’s get started… to attach our side curtain we will be usinga zipper since our bimini top is made from
fabric. if your top is a hard top you maywant to use awning track and rope or fasteners. installing awning track will be covered inour “how to make an enclosure aft curtain†video coming soon. to sew on the zipper thebimini will need to be removed. prior to its removal we need to mark the appropriate stopand start locations for the zipper or zippers. typically the zipper should stop about aninch or two away from the frame. this makes it easier to insert the zipper starter pininto the starter box when installing the side curtain. we have already finished the sidecurtain on the port side, here you can see the end of the zipper which stops about 1inch away from the radar arch. be sure to mark these start and stop locations on boththe starboard and port sides of the bimini.
now the bimini can be removed and taken tothe sewing table. this finished zipper needs to be the correct length or longer. here angelais checking to be sure the zipper is long enough to be used all along the side of thebimini. she then flips the zipper to the undersideand will apply a double sided tape called seamstick for canvas to the flange of thezipper. this seamstick is a â¼ inch width and is perfect for zipper applications becauseit is not so wide that the glue comes too close to the teeth of the zipper. the seamstickwill temporarily hold the zipper in place so we can sew it down perfectly.the zipper has been separated and we will baste the side which has the starter postor pin to the bimini top. why? well, when
the side curtain is removed we do not wantthe slider to left on the top but rather on the curtain so it does not flop around inthe wind. we are basting the zipper so the edge of the flange is about a half inch awayfrom the facing strip that has been sewn to the side of the bimini. the distance fromthe edge is not too important, except that you want the curtain to tuck under the bimini’sedge to keep the weather away from the zipper. this finished zipper is too long so we willcut it to size with scissors at our stop mark. we recommend using ykk #10 finished vislonzippers from sailrite. take the left over zipper and match it up with the opposite side(the side with the slider and starter box). cut the opposite side of the zippers end offso the length of zipper is exactly the same
as what has been basted on the top. be sureto cut the end with the stop and not the starter box. next cut some 1†binding to a size so itcan wrap around the zipper’s end to make a zipper stop. then begin sewing the zipperdown starting at this binding zipper stop end. keep the stitch about an 1/8†awayor more from the zippers teeth to aid in future zipping and unzipping of the slider. the stitchlength should be about 6mm in length. we are sewing this project with a sailriteultrafeed sewing machine. this is a heavy duty portable sewing machine that performsgreat for a job like this and is cost effective. in fact a single full enclosure job like thiswill easily pay for the machine and more.
as is customary when you begin sewing andend sewing do some reversing to lock the stitch in place. place a stop on the opposite side of the zipperthat will be used on the side curtain. we will cut the excess of the binding stopwith scissors then to prevent the raveling of the sunbrella we will touch the ends withthe sailrite edge hotknife. be careful to avoid touching the top. zip the opposite side of the zipper back ontothe top. earlier we used seamstick for canvas â¼ inch for the zipper. now we will use thewider 3/8 inch on the other side of the zipper flange. this wider seamstick will hold thepatterning material which will be applied
in the next step. install the port side zipperfollowing these same steps. to pattern the side curtain the bimini topneeds to be installed back on the boat. to pattern we will use 3m filament strappingtape as a base for our seamstick double sided tape. this strapping tape will make it easyto remove the double sided tape from the boat when the patterning is done. our boat alreadyhas snap studs installed for side curtains so we will position the tape approximately1 inch away from the snaps. the center of the tape should be thought of as the edgeof our curtain. if your boat never had a side curtain you will need to think about the bestlocation for a side curtain and apply the tape as a frame for its creation.
our side curtain will be zipped to a frontcurtain which will be created after the side curtains are finished. so, we need to thinkabout how we want that forward edge of this side curtain to be created to make the bestzipper junction. typically most zippered junctions to forward or aft enclosure curtains are ata corner or very near a corner turn. if your boat never had enclosure curtains installedbe sure to walk around your harbor or marina and take note of how other enclosures aremade. some of the most amazing ideas can be gained from what others have done. notice here that the 3m filament strappingtape is not up against any hard surface. it is simply attached to the front windshieldand then the bimini tubing frame at the top.
this will be the zippered edge of our sidecurtain where it will join up with the front curtain. next apply the seamstick for canvas 3/8 inchwide double sided tape on top of the strapping tape. we will be using dura skrim patterning materialfrom sailrite to make a pattern. we have cut an approximate size panel to fit our sidecurtain frame, it is larger, but not so large that it is difficult to work with. we liketo start at the top, so to prep for basting the pattern material will be held in placevia a pony clamp at the forward edge. we could do that also at the aft edge, but since thisboat has a radar arch and snaps are installed
to hold the bimini top to it we will simplyuse a snap to hold the pattern material in place there. the bimini top has hard action sockets installedto give the snap more holding power. unsnap the corner snap and lay the pattern materialover the stud and re-snap the top over the pattern material. this holds it in place.the fastener will snap but it will take a lot of force since the pattern material isbetween it. moving back inside the boat we can now bastethe pattern material to the zippers flange via the seamstick for canvas that we installedat the swing table. however the bimini’s forward pocket is not allowing the patternmaterial to lay nicely so we will cut a relieve
notch in the pattern material until it isfree to lay flat up against the bimini’s edge. now remove the basting tapes paper transferreveling the glue and carefully baste the pattern in place. we are doing this with onlyone person, but if we had a second person on the outside of the boat to apply pressureto the opposite side of the zipper angela would find it much easier to quickly basteit to the zipper. what is so great about using this dura skrimpattern material and seamstick? well, if you don’t like how it looks you can separateit easily and re-baste it multiple times. now that the top of the pattern is fixed tothe zippers we can move to the outside of
the boat and baste the rest of the patternin place following the same principles. for your information - other videos are comingsoon that will show us working on the front curtain and the aft curtain. the aft curtainvideo will use awning track and rope to attach to the radar arch, similar to an enclosurecurtain that may be attached to a hard top. watch for those videos coming soon for moreon that. a second helper to apply pressure to the backsideof the strapping tape here would be helpful. now that the pattern is up, but more adjustmentis required, it is always a good idea to cut off excessive overage, which makes the finetuning adjust even easier to accomplish. angela moved back inside the boat to checkthe pattern at the top zippers edge. make
any and all adjustments now for a perfectfitting side curtain. if the pattern looks good and is tight with no wrinkles are hardspots your enclosure curtain will look great. we are now satisfied with the why the patternlooks on the boat, it’s now time to mark the pattern. the first step will be to trace a line alongthe center of the zipper’s teeth. use a permanent marker with a fine tip. the linehere at the aft edge is not very straight, but we can fix that at the sewing table. markwhere the zipper ends start and stop on the pattern. a little secret trick - is to leavethe half of the zipper basted to the pattern, for more accurate marking at the sewing tablelater on. we will show that after marking
the entire pattern. as is customary a good pattern should be markedwith as much detail about the boat as possible. however, don’t mark so much that you getconfused at the sewing table. here angela is marking along the radar arch and windshieldedge. these will not be cut lines, but are for her reference only. she also marks wherethe bimini frame falls, this will not be used when making the side curtain, but again isfor reference, if needed. be sure to make the side curtain “soutâ€for starboard outside surface so when the second port side panel is made you do notget confused. draw a line with the permanent marker where you want the edge of the curtainpanel to end. this line should be about 1
inch away from the snap studs that are alreadyinstalled on this boat. angela will also mark where each snap falls on the pattern for reference.along the top where the bimini’ edge is she will mark there also. this corner is importantbecause the bimini has a snap holding it to the radar arch the side curtain will haveto avoid that spot, so be sure to make where that snap is on the pattern. here along the windshield her line is morethan an inch away from the snaps, that is a preference and not a rule, she wants thecurtain to stop along the bottom edge of the aluminum window frame here. drawing a line down from the top proves tobe difficult for her to keep straight, no
worries, it can be straightened at the sewingtable later on. for reference only she will mark where thecanvas top edge stops. this will not be a cut line it is only for reference. the pattern and strapping tape with seamstickcan be removed. since the zipper is basted to the pattern we are going to try to unzipthe pattern leaving the zipper attached to the pattern. this will give us the opportunityto mark the zipper edge more accurately on the opposite side of the pattern at the sewingtable. because we left the zipper basted to the patternwe can more easily trace along the teeth on the outside surface of the pattern material.so, instead of following the line we traced
inside the boat along the zipper we can usethis line instead. we can also confirm the start and stop zipper locations. if the zipperfell off of the pattern, well then you would have to rely on your first marking that wasdone inside the boat, not a big deal, but those lines are obviously not going to beas neat as this new line. remove the basting tape from the zipper. sincewe want the zipper’s teeth to hang slightly past the top edge we will create a new linethat is down from the main cut line about a half inch. here on the pattern you can see where thecorner snap was that held the bimini top in place (remember we snapped it over the patternmaterial earlier). this snap must be avoided
when creating this side curtain, so thinkabout the best way to finish this corner off. all the edges of our curtain will be finishedoff with a 1†binding, one straight or angled edge is much easier to be bound than severalturned edges. along this forward edge the line was not verystraight, but we know that it is suppost to be straight so we will use a straight edgehere. this is the edge where a zipper will be installed to attach the front curtain,we will show those steps later on in the video. cut out the pattern with scissors. here we are nesting the port and starboardside curtains on our clear vinyl window material for the best possible usage. let’s discussthe differences in our clear vinyl window
materials as angela works to trace aroundthe pattern. you have some choices in what brand and quality of clear vinyl you can use.we will start with the best brands strataglass and o’sea. these are very uv and scratchresistant vinyls. they are also very clear, like looking out a glass window. strataglassis a little stiffer while o’sea is softer. o’sea is chemical resistant while strataglassis not. we are using o’sea 30 gauge for our enclosure curtains. the second best iscrystal clear and regalite both are uv resistant and very clear. crystal clear is more firmwhile regalite is softer. for those trying to save money plastipane 30 gauge is an option,but not recommended since it is not as uv resistant and not as clear. remember the costof the clear vinyl is nothing compared to
the labor involved. it is now time to make the facings for thecurtain. for the underside facing we will use a vinyl fabric called shelter-rite, youcould just use the sunbrella or whatever fabric you have used for the outside surface as thefacing for the underside as well. to install the facings to the edges we couldjust make it for the outside surface only, but that would make the inside look kind ofugly (as you would see hems and double sided tape through the clear vinyl). we are usinga yellow grease pencil to make the black vinyl fabric, as we did when we marked the clearvinyl. we will create a 2†wide facing strip forthe underside facing. since we are using a
vinyl fabric for this we do not have to createa hem on the cut inside edge since this fabric will not unravel. if you using sunbrella forthis facing you will have to use a hotknife or cut the fabric slightly larger to makea â½â€ hem. here you can see we are using a jig with notchesthat were created with a dremel tool. these notches are just deep enough in the woodenyardstick that they hold a tip of the pencil perfectly for easy line striking. when markingthe facing hold the jig so it is perpendicular to the first line as you mark 2†away fromit. this vinyl fabric can be cut with scissors to size. apply seamstick for canvas 3/8†or â½â€width to the backside of the facing strip.
shelter-rite has a side that is glossy anda side that is less shinny we think the less shinny side looks best so that will be oursurface that will face out. we find it easier to position the facing onthe edge prior to removing the transfer paper. why? because it sticks very well to the clearvinyl and is a little difficult to reposition, but not impossible. be sure you know whichside is the inside and outside of the clear vinyl. apply this inside facing to the insidesurface of the clear vinyl window material. repeat these steps for each side of the curtain.all sides will get a 2†wide underside facing strip except the top edge where a zipper willbe sewn at that location, we will use a 1†wide underside facing strip there.
notice that when angela works with the clearvinyl window material she tries to keep it on the paper that it was shipped in. thisis done to help protect the clear vinyl from scratches. in some cases i have known customersto roll out soft fabrics on the working table, like nauga soft, (underside up) to help protectthe vinyl window from accidental scratching. if your curtain panels have curved edges,like this side, making your own facings as shown is a good idea. however, if your curtainsare mostly straight edges you could just use the prefabricated 2†facing that sailritesells. why are we not using it for this project? well prefabricated facing is a productionshortcut, but it does not take a curve well, it tends to wrinkle or not lay flat if thecurve is rather abrupt. so, we are making
our own facings for this project. we finally are coming to the top edge werea 1†underside or inside facing will need to be made, same process different measurement.to save on fabric, especially since the underside facing is not typically seen on the outside,we will cut the length of this extra-long edge in half at this slight angled corner.so it will be joined together at this location to cut down on fabric usage that would havebeen required if we made this out of one long strip that includes a rather abrupt curve. here you can see we are going to cut thisfacing to about 1†the width of our jib or ruler.
our side curtains will attach to a fabricbimini via a zipper. if your boat has a hard top it may use awning rope in an awning trackinstead. in both cases weather a fabric bimini or a hard top after this half is done we will repeat thesteps for the second half. here is where we overlapped the two separate strips. now thatthe underside facing strips are completed we can move on and make the outside facingstrips, that’s coming up next. we used a vinyl fabric called shelter-ritefor the inside facing strip now we will use our sunbrella marine grade fabric for theoutside facing strips. these are made in the same manner except that they will be a halfinch or 1 inch wider than the adjacent inside
strip. this extra width will be used to makea hem for the inside edge giving a professional finished look to the curtain panel. here on this jig you can see that angela willadd 1 inch to make the hem as the inside facing was 2 inches, so these will be 3 inches. wewill be cutting this sunbrella fabric with scissors instead of a hot knife. why? well,we don’t have to worry about edges unraveling since the inside edge will accommodate a hemand the outside edges will have a 1†binding installed hiding the edge and giving an awesomefinished look to the curtain panel. continue this process for each edge. as you make each outside facing strip layit over the appropriate location orientated
correctly on the curtain to avoid gettingconfused when it comes time to baste and sew it in place. when you reach the edge, where the facingis 1 inch wide i recommend cutting the outside facing only a half inch wider so it will be1 ⽠inch. it is easier to work with a smaller hem than a large one for a facing that isthis small. when we made the inside facing we made thisout of two separate strips, that is because we did not have a fabric long enough to makeit out of one section. this time we do, so we are making it as one whole piece this time.next up, basting. apply the seamstick for canvas 3/8†to theoutside surface of every outer edge. then
apply a second row on that same outside surfaceof the clear vinyl directly over the inner edge of the inside facing strips. if you choosenot to use an inside facing apply the second row of seamstick so it is slightly insideof 2 inches for all the edges except at the top were a 1 inch facing will be applied therekeep it slightly inside of 1 inch for that edge. on one of the short sides, peel offthe outside edge transfer paper from the seamstick reveling the glue. the long sides should bedone only after the two short ends or sides are done, so the overlap at the corners isthe same for all curtain panels. baste the facing strip in place so the edgesare even, then take it to the sewing machine and sew a straight stitch about 6mm in lengthvery close to the raw edge. this stitch will
be covered by the 1†binding later on. sobe sure it is less than a â½â€ away from the raw edge. notice that angela tries tokeep the paper under the clear vinyl material to help avoid scrapping the window over unprotectedsurfaces during its creation. finish one side at a time before moving on.so, now that the outside edge is sewn down lets create our hem along the inside edge.peel off the transfer paper. this sunbrella facing strip was made 1 inch wider than theinside facing strip so we will fold it back under itself so the fold is directly overthe facing strip on the inside surface of the clear vinyl. cut away any excess from the ends and takethis over to the sewing machine and sew a
stitch about 1/8†to 3/8†in from thefolded edge. notice that we do not do any reversing to lock the stitch in place on thesestrips. why? because the binding and other facing strips will cover the end stitchingthus helping to lock that stitch in place later on. repeat these steps this for the opposite shortside. then repeat the same steps for the two longersides, laying the facing over the corners as shown in the video. what does it look like to run out of bobbin?well, it looks like this a single thread that is just trailing behind the foot as you sew,no stitches in the fabric. time to change
the bobbin! create a hem which lays over the corners andmatches up with the facing strips on the underside. along this top edge the facing takes a ratherabrupt turn or curve and the hem does not want to lay flat so some relief notches willbe made to the hem allowing it to lay nice and flat. do not cut past the hem allowanceor it will show up on the outside surface of the facing. cut enough to allow it to relax. a typical question we get here at sailriteis, “can i sew this on my home machine?†well, many canvas and upholstery jobs thatanswer is often yes (depending on the job). however, enclosure curtains like this do requirea heavy duty sewing machine. we highly recommend
the portable ultrafeed sewing machines fora job like this. if you notice they are sewing through several layers of fabric and the clearwindow material easily, just wait until we have to sew the binding on the edge. now that’simpressive. now that all the facings are sewn on cut offany extra fabric or material that may be hanging over the edges, so the binding will go oneasier. to sew the 1†sunbrella acrylic bias bindingin place around all the edges we will use the 1†swing away straight angle binder.i do not recommend doing this job with a binder attachment device! no need to do any reversingyet at the binding or end because a second run of binding will go over the corners. yourjob, keep the assembly feeding consistently
inside the opening of the binder attachment.let the binder do the job of keeping the stitch straight and the folding of the binding, youkeep your eye on the assembly being sure it is pushed up into the opening so it catchesthe edge consistently for the stitch. let’s go back and show how we set up thebinding for our job. we like to take the roll of binding and placeit on a table with an awl or center post so it can spin as it is being used up. we are using a whole roll of 1†sunbrellaacrylic bias binding, which is about 300 feet. why? buying a whole roll is cheaper at sailriteand we used this also for the creating of our bimini and now will use it for every enclosurepanel we make. we used about 90 feet for our
bimini and we will likely need the rest forall the enclosure panel. this edge with binding installed looks greatand has a finished look from the outside and inside. sew the binding on each edge now. the bindingcannot easily take a 90 degree turn so at any corners overlay the next run so it coversthe previous and do some reversing at that corner to lock the stitch in place. the swing away binder is much better thana stationary binder because when you want to do some reversing it automatically swingsback allowing the binding to move backwards for short distances. this binder also workswith gradual outside curves, but will not
work with inside curves. if you have an insidecurve the nice thing about the swing binder is that it can be swung out of the way soyou can install the binding on by hand with the sewing machine for the inside curve thenswing it back when you reach a straight away. as you can see i highly recommend the 1â€swing away straight angle binder from sailrite. while i am selling the products at sailritelets also discuss the sailrite ultrafeed sewing machines. these are excellent machines forsewing canvas projects like this. they are portable yet heavy duty walking foot sewingmachines. this is the ls-1 a straight stitch model. you will need a heavy duty machinefor enclosure side panels and the ultrafeed sewing machines can’t be beat for the priceand performance they provide. get yours today
and do it yourself and save! now that all the binding is sewn on the edgeslet’s compare the curtain to the pattern we made. it is not uncommon for the curtainto be slightly larger due to the fact that the binding adds slightly to the size allaround. in this situation it looks pretty good! using the pattern, over the inside surfaceof the curtain, mark the start and stop location for the zipper that is used at the top ofthe curtain to attach to the bimini. if you are using awing rope and track (to attachto a hard top) you would mark for that. often awning rope attaches to a curtain via a zipper,but in some cases it is simply sewn onto the
we highly recommend using seamstick for canvasâ¼â€ width to baste the zipper in place. keep the seamstick away from the teeth asmuch as possible (that is why the â¼â€ width is best).the zipper will be installed on the inside surface of the curtain, but it is easier toinstall it while the curtain is facing outside up. so angela is marking the outside surfacefor the start and stop position and then will flip the curtain so she can see how far theteeth are protruding from the edge of the remove the transfer paper reveling the glueand begin basting the zipper in place starting at your start position. be sure that the starterbox is on the correct end of the curtain. you may want to go back to the boat to confirmthat.
remember when patterning earlier on, we removedabout a 1/2 inch along the top edge of the curtain, so our zipper could hang off thisedge more. so the zipper teeth should be just resting up against the binding, as shown inthe video. i know, this is less than a â½ inch, but remember that our curtain grew slightlyafter the binding was installed, so it should be just about perfect. we will now sew this zipper in place beingsure to reverse at the beginning and end of our sewing. we will sew directly on top ofthe stitch that secured the binding to the edge. because the zipper is basted in placewe do not have to worry about it moving while we sew, but always keep your eye on it justin case it comes loose.
when we reach the zipper slider stop sewinga few inches from it and bury the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot and pullthe slider past the foot and then lower the foot and continue to sew. since we are using a double pull slider thetab and the bottom is being stubborn and does not want to slide past the foot. it will,but you may have to work with it for a while. coming up next we will install a zipper tothe forward vertical edge so this curtain can join up with the front curtain that willbe made in another video tutorial, coming soon. since this curtain joins up with a front curtainwe need to install a zipper along the forward
edge. we want to protect the zipper from theelements and spay so we will be creating a velcro flap to cover the zippered opening.since we want the flap to fold back towards the aft of the boat (in an effort to keepthe weather out when underway) we will install velcro to this side curtain. first use seamstickfor canvas 3/8 inch to baste the velcro in place prior to sewing. the flap will be madeto cover the entire edge so be sure the velcro covers the entire edge. flip the curtain panel over to the insidesurface as a finished zipper will be installed there. this zipper should be shorter thanthe length of the side by about 2 inches per end. this will make it easier to start thezipper since the ends are typically an inch
or more over frame tubing or a solid a surfacelike the fiberglass it snaps onto (for us it’s the windshield). as done earlier thezipper should be basted in place. this time we want the teeth slightly buried behind thebinding (just slightly hanging out). this will make for a tight fitting adjacent panelwhen zipped together hiding the zipper from the elements, even if velcro closure flapis used or not. sew this zipper in place. since we are sewingnot only the zipper but the velcro on the other side we want this stitch to be veryclose to the edge of the zipper’s flange, as shown in the video. this will put the stitchcloser to the 1 inch velcro edge on the backside. we also want to start at the end of the panelto secure the velcro and the zipper and end
at the end of the panel. then flip and hold the zipper back as yousew and sew a stitch very close to the fold of the binding this stitch secures the otherside of the velcro down. here is what it should look like on the otherside of the velcro. one more step is all that is required, installingfasteners. zip the side curtain to the top first. for us we are using “hard actionâ€sockets with a snaprite button â¼â€ barrel. the hard action socket has more holding powerthan a traditional snap socket. you can get these at sailrite.let’s take a look at the inside of the enclosure’s top zipper on the bimini top.
we are going to demonstrate two tools to installthe snaps the sailrite snaprite system then the pres-n-snap installation tool. first wewill use the snaprite system. take the socket snap and secure it to the snaprite socketdie. then insert a mandrel through the die from the bottom up. this die can be used asa positioning system, simply snap it to the snap stud that is already on the boat. wewill start at the bottom corner so we can tension the curtain for the best fit. pushthe mandrel through the fabric assembly. then we will use the button die on a standard rivetinggun and insert a snaprite button with a â¼ inch barrel into the die. position this buttonsnap over the mandrel and push it through the barrel into the tool. depress the leverseveral times until the snap is secured well,
the mandrel does not necessarily need to breakand may be able to be used a up to three times before bending too much or breaking. the snapis now secured and we can carefully (so as not to lose it at sea, if you are doing thiswhile docked) remove the fabric from the mandrel and unsnap the die to be used again. since our snaps are so close together we willunsnap this corner snap to position the next mandrel in the fabric (since the mandrel isso long). then once in what we think is the correct position we can re-snap the oppositesnap and assess the fit before installing the actual snap. if we don’t like whereit is, we can just pull the mandrel out and reposition it at a different location.
this time the mandrel broke, they are expendableso don’t worry. to use the pres-n-snap tool we will need tomark the location of each snap stud that is installed on the boat. here we are using thesoapstone pencil to mark the positon directly over the stud. i would recommend marking onlyone or two at a time then install them and snap them up before marking more. so you areposition each new snap with the existing snaps already installed for a better fit. secure the hard action socket or standardif you wish and the button â¼â€ barrel onto the dies of the pres-n-snap tool. then positionthe tool over the marked location on the fabric and depress the lever until a vise grip closuresnap is felt. adjustment for that special
feel can be done via the knurled knob at thebottom of the tool. if you are careful you can mark the locationof each snap while the curtain is up and then take it down and install each snap at thesewing table, but you must be sure each mark is in the correct location if doing this.you can also use the snaprite system without a stud as seen here. this side curtain enclosure panel is now complete.coming up next is the materials list and tools we used to make this side curtain. be sureto watch for new videos coming soon showing the front curtain and aft curtain construction. here’s a list of the materials we used tomake the side curtains. if you have any questions
regarding what type of clear vinyl windowmaterial or about any other products we carry, give us a call at sailrite, we will be gladto help! some powerboat enclosures use a vinyl fabric for the facings instead of sunbrella,brands like stamoid or weblon regatta are very popular. if using those vinyl type fabricsthe construction process is still the same as outlines in this video. be sure to be watchingfor two more enclosure videos that are coming soon “how to make an enclosure aft curtainâ€and “how to make an enclosure front curtainâ€. if your boat uses awning track and rope theaft curtain video will be demonstrating how that is used. watch for them at www.sailrite.comor the sailrite youtube channel. for more free videos like this be sure tocheck out the sailrite website or subscribe
to the sailrite youtube channel. it’s yourloyal patronage to sailrite that makes these free videos available, thanks for your loyalsupport! i’m eric grant and from all of us here at sailrite, thanks for watching!