About : standard furniture assembly instructions
Title : standard furniture assembly instructions
standard furniture assembly instructions
eric: this video is brought to you by sailrite.visit sailrite.com for all your project supplies, tools, and instructions.in this video, sailrite will show you how to make lounge chair cushions. we’ll beusing the world’s best outdoor fabric, sunbrella upholstery fabric, from sailrite. by upholsteringprojects- including seat chairs, table runners, throw pillows, and of course outdoor furniture-you can create luxurious outside lounge areas. take your porch or patio to the next levelwith a little help from sailrite. we found some old furniture that’s frameis made from metal. to restore it, we used a wire brush and steel wool to remove loosepaint. then we used rust-oleum rust reformer, which helps to convert any rust to a paintablesurface. then after it dried, we used rust-oleum
hammered for a beautiful look on all our furniture.now that our frame is ready, cindi- a professional seamstress for sailrite- will show us howto make lounge chair cushions. the first step is taking measurements. we’re going to start this chaise loungechair, and we’re going to use a 3†piece of foam to pad the whole thing. then we’regoing to add a back headrest pillow up here. first i’m going to measure for the bodypieces of it. inside the arms-22â€. this piece will be separate from this piece becauseof this bend in the frame. so we’re going to need a piece that’s 22â€x 19†forthe seat. for this part, i’m going to make it 28 â½â€. the back is 30†tall, but thecushion will sit on top of the seat cushion
so i’m going to subtract 2 â½â€ from thatand make it 27 â½â€ finished by 21 â½â€; this is just a little bit narrower than theseat. eric: not all lounge chair frames are thesame size so be sure to measure yours. i’m ready to cut my pieces for my chairand i’ve added a â¼â€ to all original dimensions to get my seam allowances. i also need twohinges to go in between the back and the seat and the seat and the foot. so i’m goingto cut those 22†wide by 4 â½â€ long. i also need ties to hold onto the chair, andi’m going to use twelve of those- two at the top, two at the hinge between the backand the seat, and then two at the foot. so i need twelve of them and those will be 2â€wide by 12†long.
eric: these ties will be made from severallong strips of fabric that are folded three times and then cut to size after they’resewn. my boxing will be cut at 3 â¼â€ wide. zipperswill be cut- i’m going to make them just a little bit shorter than the width- so i’mgoing to cut those at 20†wide by…boxing strip is 3 â¼â€ wide. so to get the widthof my zipper i’m going to divide that by two, which is 1.62â€. i’m going to add1â€, and 1†is for this area here that i fold down. eric: this fold down, which equals about 1â€,will conceal the edge of the zipper and make for a clean edge right in the middle of thezipper teeth, as seen here. now we know what
size to cut our plates, our hinges, our zipperplaques, our ties, and our boxing. these measurements are for our lounge chair.notice we cut the plates a â¼â€ larger on all sides than the desired finished size,and the boxing is a â¼â€ wider than the foam thickness. because i’m going to just cut my boxingstrips straight across the width of the fabric and then cut them to size later, i’m goingto go ahead and cut six of those. i may need more later, but i’m going to start withsix. those are at 3 â¼â€. eric: our lounge chair will have three cushions-one for the seat, the back, and the foot. we need this boxing to wrap around the entireperimeter of each one of those three cushions
minus the area for the zipper. the absolutebare minimum that we would need is 218†and that doesn’t even account for the stripes.so divide that by our width of fabric and we need at least four strips; we’re goingto cut six. this piece of sunbrella, it doesn’t matterwhich side is the right or the wrong; you can use either side. they pretty much lookthe same. i am going to mark the right and the wrong side just with a pencil mark andan x just because i like to keep track of that. some of the sunbrellas you cannot useboth sides; there is a right and wrong side to them. but this one there is not. eric: throughout this video we’ll be usingsome terms that are common for building cushions.
our lounge chairs are basically box cushions,and this is the anatomy of a cushion. on this illustration you can see the zipper plaque.that’s the place that the foam is inserted into the cushion cover and the zipper closed. i also need to determine what i want to useas the center of this lounge chair because i want the same stripe to go all the way upthe chair, even though there are three different cushions. the way i usually figure that outis to stand back and look at what stands out to me, and on this fabric, this white stripeis what stands out. so this is what i’m going to use as my center. i want to makesure that i have enough width that i can lay two pieces side by side. otherwise i’d bewasting a whole bunch of fabric.
so my pieces are 22 â½â€ so i need 11 â¼â€in the center. here is my center; here’s 22 â½â€. i’m just checking to make surei can repeat this over on the other side of the fabric, and i can’t. i can’t repeatthat because my 11 â¼â€ is going to end up off the edge of the fabric. so i need to choosea different center. if i make this dark green line right here my center, and try it again…there’smy center and i need 22 â½â€. if i find that same green line over here and put my pin inthe center- 11â¼â€. there’s my 22 â½â€ so i can get both front and back out of thesame width of fabric. i have the width determined on these pieces,and the width on the seat and the foot will be the same. the width on the back is justa little bit narrower. so for the seat i needed
19 â½â€. i’m going to mark my 19 â½â€with a couple pins and then draw a line. eric: for your information, a full material’slist is found at the end of this video. now i can cut this along the pattern of thefabric. because it’s a woven fabric, i know it’s going to be straight. eric: because we carefully determined thecenter stripe, we can get two up, thus saving fabric, as we nest each one of these plates.a plate is the top side of a cushion or the bottom side of a cushion. the banding aroundit is called boxing. i’ve cut this seat panel and i’m goingto put a pin in the back top of this piece so that i know right side wrong side. thenwhen i come over to cut the second one, because
this is not a balance stripe, it’s not evenon one side to the other, it’s not even from here over as it is from here over; it’suneven, and i want my cushion to match all the way around. so i’m going to flip thisover and this is going to become the back of this piece. i’m going to match up thestripe and cut it just like i did this one and put a pin back here. that will remindme that this will match at the front; this becomes the front. eric: the pins are always inserted on theright side of the fabric, even though this fabric does not really have a right side/wrongside; both sides can be utilized. however, you may pick a fabric that has only one sidethat can be used as the outside surface.
this is the top and bottom of my seat cushionand when i put this boxing strip in the middle of it… eric: if we would’ve used a hotknife tocut out the fabric, it would’ve eliminated the raveling that you see on the edge of thefabric. you can see that i can match this cushionnow all the way around the top to the boxing to the bottom, and by matching i mean thestripe matches all the way around the cushion, which will give you a much nicer looking cushion. eric: to keep from getting confused, we’lllay these two plates on top of the chair where they belong. it’s also a good idea to usemasking tape and mark each one of them.
i’m going to cut the foot part and it’sthe same width as the seat was, only its 29†long. i’m also going to put a pin on theright side at the back of this one. eric: let’s go back to discussing the hotknifeto cut the fabric out. there are some fabrics that unravel rather quickly, and in thosesituations a hotknife is definitely recommended. but you’ll notice throughout this video,even not using the hotknife, the unravelling is easy to contend with with this fabric. so here’s the two pins in my back sectionof my foot piece. i’m going to leave it right sides together. i used this green stripeas the center of my other pieces, and the back piece is just a little bit narrower.i’m going to cut it at 22â€. so i’m going
to mark my sides again at 22†to cut, andthis one is 28†long. this is the back cushion so i’m going to mark the bottom of the backcushion because it’s not front back; it’s top bottom. i want the bottom of the backcushion marked so the pin is going to end up in the opposite place when i flip it overon this one. i’ll show you when i put it on the chair. i’m going to put a pin inthe right side of this one also. then when i put this together, this is going to be thebottom of my cushion. eric: our boxing and all our plates are cut.up next we’ll cut ties. these will be used to fasten the cushion to the chair. i have all this scrap left that i could cutthe ties out of, but i’m going to show you
why i’m not going to cut the ties this directionon this fabric. because of the weave, it’s pretty thick, and if i try to fold it likethis, it’s hard to fold and it’s hard to hang on to. if i fold it along the weaveof the fabric, it folds much nicer and it’s going to be much easier to make the ties.you can tell that just by trying it with your fabric. take the scrap of your fabric, foldit this way and see how nicely it folds, how easily it folds, and then fold it this way.just go with whichever way folds easier. you don’t want to make it any harder on yourselfthan it has to be. for the ties i’m going to go ahead and cutall the way across the width and then cut it down to size. i will use the hotknife toburn the ends of these because this fabric
is way too thick to try and turn the endsunder to finish them off. i’m cutting them 2†and i’ll cut them down to 12â€.eric: for us we want to use ties at six locations. we need two each at each location and eachof them are 12†long. i can actually sew this whole long strip intoone tie and then cut it down to twelve rather than cutting it into pieces and working withthe small pieces. eric: our fabric is 54†wide. we need threestrips for the ties. the next thing i want to cut is the hingesthat connect the cushions together, and those are going to be as wide as the cushions. theyare 22â€, and i’m going to use the same center mark so that everything matches. iwant those to be 22†x 4 â½â€, and i need
two of them. eric: the hinges will be folded in half andattached to the seat bottom of our lounge chair to attach the foot portion and the backportion. for the zippers i just cut straight stripsacross the fabric. i’m going to cut those down to size now. i want those to be 20â€.i’m going to use my green center line and cut them 20†long; i’ll need six of those.i will need six of these- one for each of the bigger cushions. we already made the zipperfor the headrest pillow. so these go in the box cushions. my boxing strip is 3 1/4â€wide. to get the width of my zipper, i’m going to divide that by two, which is 1.62â€.i’m going to add 1â€, and the 1†is for
this area here that i fold down. i’m goingto mark those on the back with a “z†so i remember that they’re for the zipper. eric: our lounge chair only has three boxcushions- the seat, the back, and the foot. we only need three zipper plaques. why dowe need to cut six? that’s because each side accommodates for one side of the zipper.you can see here a fold is inserted into this zipper plaque and then it is butted up nextto the opposite one. that’s why we need six for our three zippers.coming up next, we’ll be making a headrest pillow for the lounge chair. this is an optionalstep, but we believe it makes the chair look great and it’s more comfortable.
now we want to put a headrest pillow on thischair that’s going to end up right here. i found this one on another chair that’salready made. someone’s already done the hard work for us of the measuring and thedesigning so i’m going to use this as a pattern for my pillow for the new chair. eric: don’t worry. you don’t need to havethis. we’re going to show you how to do the patterning and give you the measurements. here’s the hinge on this one. this is theback piece with the zipper in it. the front piece is what makes the shape with these tucksin it right here. so i’m going to take this apart and use this as my pattern.
eric: cindi cuts apart the seams so that shecan take measurements of this headrest pillow. we’ll be showing you an illustration showingthe exact measurements of what to cut if you desire a headrest pillow for your lounge chair.these will also be shown at the end of this chapter. here’s the hinge piece. this is the zipperpiece. this is the piece that makes the shape of the pillow with these tucks on the corners.so i’m going to open these up so i can use this as my pattern and then i’ll put thetucks back in the new piece. this gives the pillow its depth.this hinge is bigger than the other two because it will fall back here if you don’t wantto use the pillow on the chair, or it flips
over here and holds the pillow onto the frontof the chair. so it has to cover the depth of the cushion right here and then fall downas a pillow. this little piece that fits on each end ofthe zipper is 2 â½â€ wide and 8†long, and you will need two of those. zipper plaqueis 19†long and 5†wide, and you will also need two of those. i’m making it 5â€to add for the piece that we fold under to apply the zipper to. the face of the pillow,or the front of the pillow, is 24†wide by 10 â½â€ long. the strap, or the hinge,i’m adding a â½â€ at the end because i’m going to turn under that much to hem it tofinish the end. well let’s make this one 22†because we made the others 22†sothey’ll be the same. so we’re 22†x
10 â½â€. eric: here are the exact measurements youneed for the headrest pillow. we made our hinge the width of our other hinges that weused on the lounge chair; you should do the same. cindi will continue on here using theold headrest pillow that she found as a pattern for the new fabric. these little pieces don’t have to matchanything so i’m going to cut them out of this little strip that’s left on the side.now i’m going to cut the front piece for the headrest pillow. this is the green linethat i’m using as the center in my other pieces so i’m going to center this one also.this pillow has a little tuck in each corner,
and these are marked by a clip in the oldpattern piece. so i’m going to also put a clip in my piece so i know where those tucksare. that gets done at each corner. i’m just making clips in all the corners rightnow. there’s the headrest pillow and i’m going to put the pin down here at the bottombecause that’s the right side. now i’m going to cut the hinge and we decidedto cut this at 22†like the other hinges are, but i’m still going to center it andcut it the same length from here to here as the old one. but it’s going to be 22â€wide. so this was 19†x 5 â½â€. eric: cindi accidentally measures 5 â½â€.it’s actually 5†and that includes for the fold for the zipper.
i did center this on my green center line,but it does not have to be centered on the stripe because it won’t ever show on thefront of the chair. eric: even though this is the back of thepillow, i would still center the stripes- if your fabric has stripes. i think it looksbest even when it’s laying backwards. i’m going to put a “z†on the back ofthis so i remember that this is a zipper plaque because there are a couple of these piecesthat are about the same size. the last thing to cut is the bias for thecording. to do that i’m going to lay my ruler with the 45 degree angle on the ruleron the straight edge of the fabric and draw a line and start there to get my bias cut.the reason i like to cut it biased is because
it goes around the corners easier and it doesn’tfray. i’m going to cut this bias at 1 â½â€ because i know that that will work on thecording that i’m going to use underneath it. eric: when making bias piping, or cording,we highly recommend using this rotary cutter, the cutting mat and the clear acrylic ruler.this clear acrylic ruler is a must for anyone doing upholstery work. after picking out yourfabric from sailrite, order these parts as well. i’m going to fold this over on itself inhalf just so it fits on my cutting mat. eric: we’ve decided to add piping to boththe top and the bottom side of each cushion.
so we needed to take the perimeter of allthree cushions and multiply it times two to determine how much piping we need. in mostsituations, 55 feet of piping is required for most lounge chairs. when i sew these together, i also want a 45degree angle to stitch them together so i’m going to cut that. you can stack these ontop of each other, if you like, to cut them. you will need to do them all right sides upif you’re going to stack them together like that. these are all still right sides up.to stitch them together, i’m going to put them right sides together. when i stitch,i’ll be stitching from this angle to this angle. the bias cut in that makes it so thatall of the thickness doesn’t fold over on
itself. now when i stitch this together, thisis where i’m going to stitch from the angle here to the angle here. i’m going to chainstitch these so i’m just going to keep stitching piece after piece without breaking my thread.so to actually make the cording, i’m just going to lay this piece in the center, foldit over, and there’s a tunnel in this foot that’s going to carry it through. eric: we’re using the sailrite ultrafeedls-1 sewing machine. this is a straight stitch sewing machine. the ultrafeed sewing machineshave a cording tunnel built right into the standard foot to accommodate piping like this. i’m going to open up the seam so it’sas flat as it can be. this fabric is a little
bit thick so it’s a little bit harder towork with than other fabrics are. eric: if you’re using a home sewing machine,you’ll need to install a cording foot. just let the machine do the work and guideit into the foot. eric: everything is now cut out, and hereit is laid out. cindi will explain each piece. these are all the pieces that we need to makethe cover for that cushion on that chair. this is the pillow front, this is the hingefor the pillow, and this is the pillow back for the headrest pillow; all this makes upthe headrest pillow. here’s the two hinges that go between the back and the seat cushionand the seat and the foot cushion. this is the backplate and its zipper. this is theseat plate and its zipper. that’s the foot
piece plate and its zipper. these are my ties,which i will sew all in one long strip and then cut them down to length. these are allthe strips that i need for the boxing, which i’ll cut to length as i put the cushionstogether. this goes together in a process. first i’ll put the cording on everything.then i’ll start with the seat cushion and start constructing it. the cushions get constructedas they’re put together so try to hang in there and stay with me; it will all work. eric: next up, we’ll show you how to makethe zipper plaques. our cushion has three- not including the headrest. we’ll show youhow to make one. you’ll need to make the others as well at this time.when i make the zipper, i turn down 1†and
put a few pins in it. eric: when sewing this lounge chair cushion,we’re going to be using a stitch length of approximately 4mm-5mm in length. i’m going to place that fold in the middleof the teeth and run the right edge of my foot right up against the teeth. eric: we want this straight stitch to be closeto the zipper, but not on top of it. if it were on top of it, it would make it very difficultto use the slider. so using the presser foot against the teeth is a perfect position forthat stitch to be placed. we’re using a #5 vislon zipper, but you could use a #5 coilzipper as well.
and i want my zipper to match- the stripesto match- so i’m going to fold under on this side the 1â€. eric: a vislon zipper typically lasts a littlelonger outdoors. though they both can be used for indoors or outdoors. and place the two folds together and the edgeof the foot against the teeth of the zipper and stitch it again. eric: when sewing the other side of the zipper,be sure to sew it on the same side that you originally sewed the first one on. in otherwords, against the same side of the presser foot. that way the distance of the stitchis exactly the same on the left side and the
right side of the zipper. that means you’lltypically start sewing from the opposite end when you do the other side. we always recommendinstalling the slider now so it’s not forgotten. when i put the slide on, i have this littlelever going up away from the bottom of the zipper. slide it on the end and just tug alittle bit on either side of the teeth and your slide will go on easily. eric: make all your zipper plaques as shown.coming up next, we’ll make the ties that’ll tie the cushion onto the metal frame.you can fold this and pin it. i’m going to see if i can do it without pinning it justbecause it’s faster. but if you need to, you’re going to fold each side into thecenter and then fold it in half again and
stitch along this edge. eric: we have six locations that these tiesneed to be used, and each length of tie is approximately 12†and there are two at eachlocation. so 12†times 12†is 144†worth. i’ve got this tie all made in one big longstrip and i’m going to cut it down to 12†with a hotknife. eric: since it is basically just a tie, itdoesn’t have to exactly be 12â€. we’re using a sailrite edge hotknife, which keepsthe edges of the fabric from unravelling. if you don’t have a professional hotknifelike the sailrite edge hotknife, you can use a wood burning tool or a soldering gun.
the hotknife finishes off the edge so it doesn’travel and it cuts it. eric: next up, we need to sew the piping ontothe plates. we’re going to show it with only one plate, but you need to do all sixnow. i have the zipper ready for the seat plate.the first thing i’m going to do is put the bias cording that i made around the perimeterof these two pieces. then i’m going to add the hinges to it. eric: always try to start your piping at theback side of the cushion in the middle. here we’re leaving a tail that’s approximately2â€-3†unsewn so that it can be joined together when the piping goes all the wayaround the perimeter of this plate. as mentioned
before, the sailrite ultrafeed sewing machineshave a cording tunnel built right into the standard foot. i need to clip at the corner so it goes aroundthe corner nicely. eric: watch what cindi does here. she willfind the corner, bury her needle, lift the presser foot, then turn the piping and theplate, lower the presser foot, and continues to sew. that makes a perfect corner. she’lldo that at each one of the corner locations. here we are at the next corner. cut, sew upto the corner about a â½â€ away from the edge, leave the needle buried, lift the presserfoot, rotate the assembly, lower the presser foot, then continue to sew. let’s skip aheadto where we have to join the piping together.
when i get back to where i started, i’mgoing to cut this about 3†longer than my end here and open this up. pull the fabric back andtrim the cording- just the cording- off even with the beginning of my bias. then fold thisback. i fold it back in a diagonal line so it doesn’t all fall back over on itself.it will be not quite as thick this way. tuck it inside and fold it back over. eric: we’re installing piping on all ofour plates. we have six plates for our lounge chair. we’re only going to show it on thisone plate, but if you desire piping, you need to do it to all your plates now. and there’s the cording on the first piece.i’m going to do the same with the other
piece that’s the same size as this one. eric: we’ll start by building the seat cushion. the first piece i’m going to do is i’mgoing to finish the edges of these hinges and that’s just turning under about a â½â€for a hem on each of the short ends. eric: if your fabric has a right side andwrong side, be sure to fold the hem in towards the wrong side. you may have noticed thatwe used masking tape and labeled these hinges and all of our other assemblies so that wewould not get confused. i’m going to start putting the seat cushiontogether, and i need the two hinges that we made, i need the zipper, i need two piecesof boxing, and we’re going to put four ties
on this cushion. first i’m going to putthe ties at the back corners back here. eric: again, notice the masking tape withthe labels. this greatly aids in helping to keep confusion to a minimal. please do thatif you have not done it already. to evaluate the location of the ties, takea look at your chair and see where it will tie easily. then position those ties exactlywhere you want them for your particular chair. ties should always be installed on the backplate,never the top plate. this piece with the ties becomes my bottompiece. so that’s all i’m going to do to this piece right now. i want the ties to beat the bottom. the hinges will be on the top piece.
eric: the two hinges for our lounge chairwill be attached to this seat. they are folded in half when sewn. and i would like the stripes to match. eric: be sure the hems on the two short sidesare folded in. so i’m folding this in half and i’m goingto stitch it into this seam. eric: you’ll notice that when she does thesewing of the hinge she does not do any reversing. that’s because when the next boxing piece-the facing piece that goes around the perimeter of our box cushion- is attached, it will re-sewthat hinge yet again. so we don’t have to worry about the stitches coming loose. ifyou want to do some reversing you can. it’s
not required. so there’s what that looks like with onehinge, and i’m going to put the other hinge on this side. eric: the process for installing this hingeis done exactly the same way. we line up the stripes, fold it in half, and sew it to theedge of the top plate. we will not show this whole process. and again i want to match the stripes. here’sthe top plate and the bottom plate of your seat cushion. one has ties; one has hinges.i’m going to attach the zipper next. also matching the stripe. for the zipper, i’mgoing to start in about 2†and stop about
2†in so that i can attach the boxing pieceto the end of it. eric: it is important to leave the 2†or3†unsewn at each end of the zipper plaque so the boxing can be attached. then it canbe sewn to the plate. you’ll see that a little bit later. this sunbrella upholsteryfabric is beginning to stack up, layer upon layer, but you’ll notice the sailrite ultrafeedsewing machine does a phenomenal job of sewing so there’s what that looks like with thezipper in. now i’m going to work on the boxing. and i’ve marked the wrong side ofthis with an “xâ€. eric: when sewing boxing to plates, rememberthe right sides always face each other. i’m going to match up the stripes in thefront, and make sure i have enough to go around
each side. i will have to add on to this tomake it long enough to go around the corner. but the part i’m mostly concerned aboutis matching the front so i’m going to do that first. eric: since we’re sewing a striped fabric,and the stripes only line up on the front side and the back side, we’ll start withobviously the front side as that is the most important area to line up the stripes. besides,they obviously will not line up. i’ll need to clip the corners in this also. eric: the sailrite ultrafeed sewing machineshave a cording tunnel, or piping tunnel, built right into the standard foot. notice she doesthe same process: she finds the corner about
a â½â€ away from the edge of the fabric,lifts her presser foot, rotates the fabric, lowers her presser foot, and continues tosew. just like we did when we installed the piping onto the plate. if your sewing machinedoes not have a cording foot built into it, you need to install a cording, or piping,foot onto the sewing machine to sew this; if you’re using piping.cindi notices the boxing’s not long enough so she stops short. i’m going to have to add to this one alsoto make it long enough because i don’t want my seam to be right here because i alreadyhave this thickness and the thickness of this going together. i’m going to trim this offback here and put my seam over on this side
and add to it back here. eric: what cindi’s doing here to add tothe length of the boxing is completely acceptable and it will look great too. so even if you’reonly short 1†or even 20â€-30â€, don’t worry about doing this when required. she’snot even concerned about where the stripe lies. you’ll notice it’ll still look great. now i have a seam on the side instead of backhere. i have a piece that’s way too long. so i’m going to put my clip in the cornerand turn it- not sewing it, just turning it- and cut this a couple inches beyond the endof the zipper. then i can stitch the zipper end and the end of this boxing together- rightsides together.
eric: use some scrap fabric to create a zipperstop. this is a zipper stop. eric: actually just sewing over the teethcreates a zipper stop. but by adding this scrap piece of fabric that helps to reinforcethe stitch and also creates a better stop. if you’re using a home sewing machine, andyou don’t have a sailrite ultrafeed heavy duty sewing machine, you may need to walkover the teeth by rotating the balance wheel by hand. we don’t have to worry about that. so now this is too long. i’m going to foldthat extra underneath back here when i get around the corner. so go back to where i stopped.
eric: bury the needle at the corner. rotatethe balance wheel by hand to do this. i’m going to take that extra and just foldit under. eric: this is an awesome way to join the boxingto the zipper plaque and not have to be concerned about the extra length of boxing when attachingit because this creates a beautiful piece and also a pocket for the slider of the zipper. there’s what that looks like. the reasoni do that extra there is because then i don’t have to have an exact measurement for my boxing.it also hides the end of the zipper. eric: the other side of our boxing needs morelength as well. so here we’ll join another piece of boxing to that.
now when i get over to the other side, i wantto stitch from the backside so i can start here and go around. so i need to turn it over. eric: notice that a slit is still made inthe boxing, which is now underneath the plate. as cindi sews all these assemblies together,her stitch is about a â½â€ from the raw edge of the fabric and as you can see, she carefullylines up the edges of the fabric so they are even. again she’s going to stop short soshe can join the boxing to the zipper plaque just as she did on the other side of thiscushion. here’s the seam where i added my extra pieceon this side. i’m going to clip the corner and turn it and then give myself a coupleinches beyond the end of this and trim it
off. then stitch the end of the zipper andthe end of the boxing together. eric: the slider’s already been installedto the zipper. if you have not done that, be sure to do that now because once this issewn together, you’d have to rip the stitches out to install the slider.same process…the boxing’s a little bit too long. but we don’t have to worry aboutit because we’re going to tuck it back on top of itself and create a nice pocket. there’s that extra fabric that we had onthe other side folded under there. eric: and here, we’re coming to the beginningspot where we started sewing. we sew a few inches over that and we’re done.
here’s what your piece looks like rightnow. this is actually the bottom and this is the top. once again i’m going to matchthe stripes. so i’m going to put it right sides together. you can see that the stripesmatch in the back and in the front. i’m going to start at the front to make sure thosematch because those are the ones that are most important. here’s my boxing strip andhere’s my hinge. eric: the hinge has already been sewn to thetop portion of the plate. you’re sewing the boxing over top of that hinge. we didn’tshow it, but a slit’s already been made at this corner. that slit should never go,or be cut, past where we’re sewing. at the next corner, we’re going to show you howto accurately put the slit where it belongs.
so keep watching. we’re going to show thatbefore we move on to the next step. it is very important to be sure that the corner’son the other side of the cushion are directly opposite of each other. here cindi will showyou how to do that making a slit. i’m folding this where the corner is. ican see by the stripe that it’s straight so i’m going to clip there. hopefully, mycorner will land at my clip, which it does. we have that extra fabric there under thezipper so i’m going to fold that in. you can see that the stripe matches back here also. eric: she’ll find the corner by foldingthe assembly at the corner to find it on the opposite side of the boxing and create a slit.
fold that extra with the zipper underneaththe zipper again, and my clip should meet at my corner. eric: on the inside of this assembly, theends of the ties are just hanging loosely. we do not want to sew those in by accidentso be sure you push them inside the assembly so they do not get sewn in when sewing aroundthe perimeter of this cushion. we’re going to skip ahead to where we startedsewing and just sew directly over there by a few inches and we're done. this one is ready to be turned inside out,or right side out. eric: the process for building each of thethree box cushions that are required for this
lounge chair are done exactly the same way.however, there is one important factor and that is how they are joined together withthe hinges. there is an exact process for that. cindi will explain that more in detailin the next chapter. this is the top with a hinge on each side,ties on the bottom, and your zipper in the back. this piece goes right here on the chair.we’ll connect this piece next- the foot piece- and then we’ll add the top pieceto it. eric: we’ll start by showing how to sewthe foot box cushion to the seat box cushion. this is the seat piece that we just finishedand here’s our hinge. this is the foot piece that needs to be attached to it. so the firststep in attaching these is to attach the top
plate to the hinge. again, i want my stripesto match. so i’m going to sew the hinge part. eric: cindi’s joining the top plate of thefoot cushion. at the edge of the cushion where i startedand stopped my cording and match the stripes as i do that. here’s my hinge, and i’mgoing to attach it to where this cording is attached. eric: this is the folded portion of the hinge.you’ll notice the fold. so she’s lining up the fold with the raw edges of the plateon the bottom side. all of our pieces have been labeled with masking tape for easy identification.if you haven’t done that, we recommend doing
that highly. again, no reason to do any reversingas a boxing will be installed on top of this hinge in a later step. the top plate of thefoot cushion is now attached. so now we have the center seat is finished.here’s the piece that goes at the foot of the chair. that’s all we’re going to doto this right now. we’re going to set it aside for a few minutes.here’s the other half of my foot piece. it has the cording applied to it. i need twoboxing strips. the zipper will go back here. eric: this is the bottom plate of the footcushion. and we’re going to put ties at the bottomcorners of this. eric: that is where we deemed the ties woulddo best for our chair. yours may be different.
however, ties will always be attached to thebottom plate. so the first thing i want to do is attachmy ties and my zipper. eric: again no reversing is done over theties because the boxing will secure the ties well in a later step. now the zipper plaquewill be installed. she notices that the slider was forgotten on this zipper plaque. so sheinstalls that now. our fabric has stripes so she uses those to line up the zipper plaque.if yours doesn’t have that, just center so i’m starting on the zipper again, about2†away from the end, and lining up the stripe and stopping about 2†from the end. eric: to the bottom plate of the foot, we’llinstall the boxing.
now i’m ready to apply the boxing strip,and i’m going to start at the front because that’s the important part and line up thestripe again. eric: follow the exact same process that wasdone for the seat box cushion. we will not show all of this. here’s the piece that we just sewed thehinge onto the foot plate. this is what it looks like. here’s your seat and here’syour foot and here’s your hinge. i’m going to fold this back inside and leave it there.it needs to be inside when we sew it. i’m going to mark my corners on this piece byfolding it and just making a clip. what i’m doing here is folding the piping back on itself,like that, and then going straight out from
that to make a clip for the corner on theother side of the boxing. eric: this is done to ensure corners are linedup between the top plate and the bottom plate at the corners. i do that to all four corners. this is thebottom of the foot piece with the ties on it. leave this cushion inside where it isnow and flip this one over on top of it. you want the zipper to be where the hinge is;here’s my hinge right here. so i’m going to stitch all four sides of this. leave thezipper open a little bit so you can get the cushion out from the inside. eric: when sewing the plates and the boxingof this foot cushion together, be sure the
seat cushion in the middle and any ties inthe middle are not accidentally sewn into the perimeter stitch. so push them deeplyinside the cushion if necessary. as she comes to the corner, you’ll notice the littletuck from the excess boxing, which creates a pocket at the end of the zipper. be surethat is tucked exactly the same way as it is on the other side of the boxing so it matches. when you come around the corner, you haveto be careful that you don’t catch this cushion that’s tucked on the inside. soi’m going to push it over out of the way. eric: alright we’re going to skip aheadto the opposite corner of the zipper. so here we’re going to round this corner and thenwe’ll have the end of the zipper plaque
again. we have to make the tuck with the excessboxing there, just like we did previously. that creates the pocket at the end of thezipper. and now we come upon where we started sewing. we’ll sew over that by a few inchesand we’re done with this assembly. now the foot and the seat are sewn together. this is what it looks like after you get itsewn. it’s all completely enclosed with a big lump in the middle because there’sa cushion inside there. so we’re going to unzip the zipper and pull the cushion out,and also turn this one right side out. here’s the foot piece, here’s the hinge, and here’sthe seat piece with the ties at the bottom of the foot and at the top edge of the seat.so we built these two pieces so far.
eric: up next, we’ll sew the back rest topplate to the assembly. here’s the foot piece that we just attached.here’s the seat piece that we made to begin with. this is the backrest piece. i’m goingto attach this piece here to the hinge- right sides together. this is the top plate andthe bottom plate. we’ll get the pillow and ties attached to it next. eric: as we did for the foot, we’ll attachthis top plate for the backrest to this assembly- right over the hinge. cindi flips the panelso the seat assembly is on top. the backrest is on the underside of this assembly. herethe hinge is being sewn to that. once the hinge has been sewn to the top plate of thebackrest, we will stop because now we need
to build the optional headrest pillow. that’scoming up next. if you’re not doing that, skip that chapter. here’s what we have now: the front of theback piece, the seat and the foot piece. i’m going to fold all this up on itself again,and then set it aside for a minute. all of this is going to end up on the inside whenwe put the next piece on. eric: if you’d like an optional headrestpillow, now’s the time to build that so you can add it to your assembly. we also need to make the back pillow- thebig pillow hinge. i’m just going to turn in about a â½â€ on each short edge and topstitch it.
eric: this is done exactly the same way wedid the hinges for the seat. next we’ll build the zipper plaque. this process is doneexactly the same as what was done for our box cushions. these are my two pieces for my pillow zipper.to make the zipper for the pillow, i’m going to turn in about 1â€and stitch the zipperin with the fold in the fabric at the middle of the teeth and the right edge of the footup against the teeth. eric: since we’ve shown this process before,we’re going to go rather quickly through i’m going to do the same thing to add theother side to it. i just want to make sure that i’ve matched my stripes. so hold itup next to the fold of the other piece and
stitch it also with the right side of thefoot up against the teeth of the zipper. eric: don’t forget to install the slider. slide it on the end and just tug a littlebit on either side of the teeth, and your slide will go on. these two small pieces thatwe cut go on the end here. it looks like i’ve cut them too short, or i’ve got my zippertoo long. so i’m going to center it on this and still use it. eric: back when she was doing measuring, sheaccidentally added a â½â€ extra. i probably have the zipper too wide. so i’mgoing to go back and trim this off after i sew these on. but i do want to trim the sameamount off of this end and this end so my
zipper is still in the middle. eric: before sewing over the teeth, againshe uses some scrap fabric and cuts a stop. this little piece is going to be my zipperstop. eric: we’ll add that opposite piece to theopposite side just as we did here, and include a stop. we will not show all of this. here’s what the zipper looks like for theback of the headrest pillow. this is the hinge that we finished the edges on for the backpillow. i’m going to fold it in half. this is the pillow that i made the zipper plaquetoo big on. so i’m going to trim this off, push those out, and then this hinge gets attachedto this pillow zipper piece. this is my hinge
and this is my zipper piece. the hinge getssewn to the zipper piece for the back of the headrest pillow. i want the stripes to matchon this also. so i’m going to check that before i sew it so i don’t have to resewit. the hinge will get sewn right here at the top and then the pillow is actually goingto flip over this way. so this will be the front of the pillow so i know it’s goingto match the front of the cushion. first i’m going to sew this seam and then i’m goingto put the pillow together and attach it to the piece.i want to check and make sure that the pillow front is going to match the pillow back. sothe next step is to make the tucks in the corners of this. we bring those two littlecuts up next to each other and that gives
the pillow the depth that it needs. i’mgoing to stitch that down. eric: to stitch it down, she’ll sew approximatelyâ½â€ from the raw edge of the fabric or a little bit less. she’ll do that at eachof the four corners. here she’s pinned it in place so you can see it better. there’s what it looks like when it’s pinned.this piece from my old pattern is actually going to be a little too long to fit on thispiece. to compensate for the length of this piece i’m going to…so i want a reallybig stitch length. i’m going to stitch, and as i stitch, i’m going to push the fabrictowards the back of the foot, which will take up a little bit of this extra fullness.
eric: this practice also gives the pillowmore shape. it won’t be much, but it is a little bit,and that’s all we need. you can see how that just took in a little bit of fullnessright there to make the depth of your pillow. eric: nicely done! now we’ll do the samething to the other end. now with the hinge on the inside of this andthe zipper opened up a little bit. eric: right sides face each other, hinge ison the inside, stripes lined up. right sides together. i’m going to stitchall four sides of this. eric: it is recommended that this be pinnedin place that the stripes line up perfectly all around the perimeter. obviously they willnot line up on the two short sides; only the
long sides. but by using pins like this, youcan make sure that nothing moves when you take it to the sewing machine and sew. we’llsew all around the perimeter and this time, our machine needs set up for a 5mm. we’regoing to move it back down to about a 4mm stitch length, and we’re sewing about aâ½â€ from the raw edges of the fabric. don’t cut your hinge when you do this sideseam. make sure it’s out of the way. eric: the hinge is on the inside. you don’twant to sew through that. alright, we’re going to move on and show you what this lookslike finished. i’m going to open up the zipper on the pillowand turn it right side out. here’s the little tucks that we made and the little bit of gatheringright there. easy.
eric: very nice! now we can add this assemblyto the backrest and continue sewing it together. here’s my zipper panel that we made, here’sthe hinge, and there’s the front of the pillow. eric: we can sew the backrest back bottomplate to our assembly now. so this is the backplate of the back piece,and it needs ties up here at the top. i’m going to move those down just a little bitwhen i put them on so there not right up at the corner. so those will get sewn on. i wantto put these ties down a little bit away from the corner so i’m going to measure down3†and make a pencil mark outside by my cording so i know where to put the ties.
eric: if you’ve chosen not to attach a headrestpillow, you’ll skip the steps regarding that. the pillow gets attached with the zipper facingyou and the stripes will match. we’re going to attach the ties and the little pillow allat the same time. eric: two ties per side, that way we can tieto each other. no need to do reversing because we are going to be sewing this on to boxinglater on. line up the stripes to the hinge on the pillow, if you have that, and sew thehinge in place. if you don’t have an optional headrest, you would skip sewing this hingeonto this plate, and you would skip ahead and sew on the boxing to the plate and thezipper plaque, which is coming up next. when
you reach the other side, sew the ties inplace there as well. ours are about 3†down from the corner to keep it away from the pillow. here’s what this piece looks like now withthe ties attached and the pillow attached to it. i’m going to leave the pillow onthe inside as i attach the boxing. so i’m going to put the zipper on first again andline up the stripes, and then go back and attach the boxing to it. eric: again, leave some room at the end sothe boxing can be attached to the zipper plaque on both sides. since we did this all in entiretywhen we sewed the seat cushion together, we’re going to skip ahead here. here we’re sewingthe boxing to this plate. once that’s done,
we’re going to fold the assembly at eachcorner to find the appropriate spot to create a clip for the corner. here’s our pile of other cushions with thebackplate attached. we are going to leave all of this inside and attach this last piecewith the zipper at the hinge and stitch all the way around all four sides. we want tomake sure everything stays inside- all the ties and the pillow and all of this pile ofcushions ends up on the inside. open up your zipper a little bit so you can get the cushionsout after you’re finished. eric: everything is on the inside of thispillow assembly. so when you sew around the perimeter, be careful not to sew any tiesor, if you have the optional headrest pillow,
be sure you do not sew through that as yousew around the perimeter. make sure you keep all of this stuff out ofthe way. you don’t want to stitch anything into this seam except for the boxing. eric: if you’ve done it correctly, the notcheson the boxing should line up with each of the corners. now this is probably hard to see, but thisis the fold at my zipper and there’s the clip at the corner. this is pretty thick righthere because of that hinge. eric: a home sewing machine will likely strugglewith this fabric assembly, but not the sailrite ultrafeed sewing machines. you may need aheavy duty sewing machine to do a job like
this. when you go down the side, you need to pushall of this inside and keep it out of your way. eric: the majority of our sewing for thiscushion cover is completed. as you can see, the sailrite ultrafeed is a phenomenal sewingmachine for upholstery applications like this. buy yours today from sailrite. we’re goingto skip ahead to where we started sewing and this assembly is now sewn together. here’s what we have with the boxing attachedto the front and the back of the back cushion. the zipper’s opened up a little bit. i’mgoing to open it up the rest of the way and
everything is inside. there’s the two cushions,and then i can turn this one right side out. eric: next, we’ll measure and cut our foamthat we’ll insert inside of our lounge chair cushions. i’m ready to cut the cushion cores for thischaise lounge. i’m going to cut my cushion cores at the same size that i cut my plates-the 22 â½â€ wide by 19†long for the seat, 22 â½â€ wide by 29†long for the foot piece,and 22†wide by 28†long for the back. eric: what type of foam should you use? sincethis is a lounge chair and it’s typically outdoors, using a polyurethane foam, likewhat we’re showing here, is an option. however, if it gets soaking wet, it will take a longtime to dry out.
so this is my seat and this will be my footpiece. eric: for polyurethane foam, if it gets wet,it could take weeks to dry out. another option is using dry fast foam. dry fast foam is meantfor water. it’ll go right through the foam, especially if a breathable fabric is used,like a sunbrella upholstery fabric we’re using in this video. so whether it’s polyurethanefoam or dry fast foam, both of them can be easily cut with an electric kitchen knife,as cindi is doing here. because we’re using a polyurethane foam, we’re going to wrap,or encase, the foam in what we call spun bonded pillow protector fabric. that will help toprevent the water from possibly soaking into the foam. you can also do the same thing witha silk film.
we’re going to use this spun bonded fabricto add a water resistant layer to this foam. it does not have to fit perfectly. so i’mjust going to cut a few inches extra all the way around and stitch it together. i’m goingto do this for all three of the cushions. eric: in this situation, since we’re usingthis spun bonded pillow protector fabric, we’re going to sew a cover over top of thefoam. if we were using silk film, we would simply wrap the foam in that.we’ve placed a bowl under the spun bonded pillow protector fabric and then filled thetop cavity with water. after at least 7 ⽠minutes, let’s check to see if any waterleaked through. because both the sunbrella upholstery fabric and this fabric is waterresistant, that will help to prevent water
from majorly leaking into the foam. as youcan see, there’s no water in the bowl. i’m going to put a couple pins in just tohold this together while i stitch it. i have two layers here. i’m just going to stitcharound- down one side, across the one side and up. i’m going to leave this whole sideopen to stuff my cushion core in. eric: please excuse the noise in the background.that’s our 50’ plotter table plotting fabric.to sew this fabric, we’re still using the same v-69 polyester thread. it’s a littlebit on the heavy side for the lightness of the fabric. so cindi will pull on the backof the fabric as she’s feeding it through the sewing machine to keep the puckering toa minimal. this also relieves some of the
upper tension of the sewing machine to createa stitch that will not pucker the fabric as much. once three sides are sewn, insert thefoam. then once the foam’s inserted then we can sew closed the other end. you can see that this is pretty sloppy, andthat’s okay. this fabric is very, very fine. when we stuff it into the cushion, you won’tknow that this extra fabric is there. eric: after our foam covers are made, we canmove on and do the same thing for the headrest for the headrest pillow, i’m going to usethe old piece that we used to make our pattern out of for the pillow itself. we also wantthis to be a little bit bigger, and it will compress into the form when we put it in.so i’m just going to cut like â¾â€-1â€
larger than my pattern. i’m still goingto take the tuck in the corner to fit the back. eric: cindi is cutting two, but we only reallyneed one. we’ll cut a 24 â½â€ by approximately 12 â½â€. i’m just going to make a little clip here.i have two layers here. i don’t need two layers of this; i only need one. i have about24 â½â€ x 12â€-12 â½â€. this is for the front piece. then for the back that had thezipper in it on the pillow itself, i’m going to cut it just a little bit bigger. rememberit had these two little pieces on the sides. eric: we’ll cut this back side to 23 â½â€by approximately 9 â½â€. no need to be terribly
accurate here. this is just a pillow insert. this one is 9 â½â€ x 23 â½â€. when i getready to sew this, i’m going to put a couple pins in it and just tuck these corners. it’sjust the cover of the pillow; it does not have to be pretty or perfect. eric: once the corners are pinned, as cindiis doing here; that’s all four corners, we can take it to the sewing machine and sewthe perimeter all around, leaving one side open so that we can insert a fiberfill. she’llsew all the way around, except for she’ll leave one of the long sides open. becauseeach corner has a little bit of shape, she will sew about 2†from the corner on theone long side she leaves open. we will not
show that. turn this one right side out so the seam’son the inside, and stuff this one with fiberfill. i just keep putting handfuls in until it’sthe way that i feel like it should be. eric: sailrite’s polyester fiberfill isperfect for pillow stuffing and throw pillows. it has a beautiful soft feeling. i’m just going to put a couple pins in itand then take it back to the machine and stitch it closed. eric: cindi is now creating a small hem andpinning the side that she left open so that polyester fiberfill could be filled in thisspun bonded pillow protector fabric. then
where she stopped sewing, she places the presserfoot on top of that stitch by a couple inches so she sews over it and then sews the openingshut pulling the pins as she approaches them. don’t worry about a pretty look becausethis is just an insert for the inside of the actual headrest pillow that is made from thesunbrella upholstery fabric from sailrite. the first cushion that we’re going to putin our cover is the back cushion, then we’ll do the seat and the foot, and last the pillow. eric: stuffing foam inside of new cushioncovers is rather difficult and it does take a little bit of time. compress the foam untilit fits. we do want a nice, tight fit. that’s why the foam is slightly larger than the cover;that is intentional. once the foam is inserted,
you may have to run your hand down to thecorners to be sure that it’s pushed into the corners appropriately. as you can seeit’s a very tight fit, and that is exactly what we want. it will make the cushion lookthe best. there’s one cushion in. now we’re goingto put the seat in. there’s my seat in. you can see that you don’t see that polyesterfabric; it’s invincible from the outside. eric: all that’s left now is to insert theheadrest pillow insert that we made out of the spun bonded pillow protector fabric. now we can put the headrest pillow in. thishad the tucks in the corners. we want those to go towards the front; the same place wherethe tucks in the corner are on the cover that
we made. eric: this project is a gorgeous project andmakes a wonderful lounge chair cushion- no matter what kind of frame it fits in, whetherit be wood or metal or even plastic. use the ties to keep the cushion on the lounge chair,even in high winds. your pillow can flip to the back if you don’twant to use it, and it’ll just hang there. if you feel like the ties are too long, youcan always trim those off after you’re finished. eric: coming up next is the full material’slist and tools that we used to build this lounge chair cushion. since most lounge chairsare typically used outdoors, we recommend the best indoor/outdoor upholstery fabricin the world- sunbrella upholstery fabric-
from sailrite. here’s the tools and material’slist. typically most lounge chairs are approximately the same size as the one we made, so here’sthe amount of material’s that you’ll need to order for your lounge chair. all of thematerials and most of the tools can be ordered at sailrite. this completes the tutorial onhow to make lounge chair covers. you’ll find thousands of decorative fabrics thatwill work for lounge chairs or hundreds of sunbrella upholstery fabrics at www.sailrite.com.here are two related videos you may want to click on now.for more free videos like this, be sure to check out the sailrite website or subscribeto the sailrite youtube channel. it’s your loyal patronage to sailrite that makes thesefree videos available. thanks for your loyal
support. i’m eric grant, and from all ofus here at sailrite, thanks for watching.